MINK CONTROL

    This article is about MINK control.
It will explain why they can be a pest and what
needs to be done for controlling bad populations.
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   Mink are small members of the weasel family. Dark
brown in color, mink have long been sought after
for their pelts. Though they only reach 2-3 lbs
in size, mink are aggressive and predatory. They
will prey upon most anything including rats, mice,
fish, rabbit, birds, eggs, insects or muskrat.
Because of their long and sleek design, mink will
commonly find their way into chicken coops or 
other animal holding cages where they can kill
several of the captive prey animals in a short
period of time. This characteristic - random
slaughtering of prey animals - sometimes confuses
the animal owner into thinking local vandals
are responsible. They also like to line their kill 
up in a row which leads to further confusion. It's
hard to imagine such a small animal could be so
destructive, aggressive and organized. But if you
raise quail, pheasant, chickens or some other small
bird, hope the local mink don't find out!
   Mink like to live close to water. Dens are commonly
made on the banks of streams and creeks but they
may choose a location under a rock or log. Babies
are born in April and May and the average litter
will have 4-6 young. Mink are active in most every
state except one or two in the southwestern region
of the United States. Since mink are usually nocturnal
and secretive, they are not easily seen. Generally
they are not the first animal thought to be responsible
for local damage unless the land owner is familiar
with how mink behave. But once they learn of a good
food supply, they will be persistent and resilient.
Local populations will have to be trapped out and
either relocated or destroyed.
   
             HOW TO TRAP A MINK
			 
   There are many ways to trap a mink. The best trap
to use will depend on where you plan on trapping and
which design you are comfortable using. Traps fall
into two categories or trap designs. The first type,
live trapping, can be done with an LT7824 LIVE TRAP. 
Since mink are wary of anything new to their environment,
it will really help if you either hide or partially
bury the trap when making a set. Keeping the wire
floor of the trap covered with dirt or mud will really
help. Leaves, brush and plants can be placed along the
sides and top of the cage to mask the enclosure. This
will insure the animal won't become overly cautious
or trap shy. Like most any live trap, you need to 
use a lure or bait to get the mink interested and
curious so they will enter. Use some MINK GLAND if
you are smelling the "musky" mink odor commonly left
behind when they enter holding pens or barns. This
odor may be present and strong by entrances which 
may be a small hole or gap between fencing. If the
mink is targeting a pond - specifically the fish
which reside in the pond - use some SALMON PASTE
as lure. And in rare cases you may find the mink is
digging in the yard foraging for insects. If this 
is the case, use some GRUB LURE. 
   If the mink is active along a stream bed or 
other location where you have a bank in which you
can make set, consider making a "pocket set". This
type of trap set is effective for many animals 
including mink. A Pocket Set is when a hole or
pocket is dug out of the bank in which the trap 
will fit snug. Ideally, when the trap is placed
in the pocket, it will fit tight. This will help
camouflage the bottom, sides and top of the cage.
Use any of the baits listed above based on what
you think will most likely get their attention.
   The use of the Live Cage is best for when you
aren't quite sure where the mink is living but you
either know where it is foraging or where it travels.
But since mink can be wary of live traps, you may 
need to use another type of live trap commonly
referred to as a "leg hold". There are two types
of leg hold traps: the COIL and the LONG SPRING.
Either will work for mink; the coil is a better
choice if you are new to trapping and don't have
much experience since it's a bit easier to work
with and set. Seasoned trappers may prefer one
over the other but either model can be quite
effective. These traps need to be placed out along
mink runs, slides and pathways where they are
active. Generally these sets are best made with
some Gland Lure. However, the pocket set can
be quite effective with either trap and some
Salmon Paste placed in the pocket. When done
right, the pocket should be made right at the water
line so water will enter and hide the trap just
under the water surface. Place the bait in a 
cheesecloth sack or nylon sock to keep it above
the water line so it won't wash away. This will
enable it to work best since it will be protected
from the rain and sun as well as the water. Use
either #11 Long Springs or #1.5, #1.75 or #2.0
Coil Traps for these sets. And if you're still unclear
where a good set may be, get a MINK TRAPPING BOOK.
It details a lot of good sets for a wide range of
environments and should prove helpful.
   The last live trap option - and one that should
be left to only the most experienced trapper - is
the use of LIGHT SNARES. When placed along walk
ways, pathways or slides where mink travel, snares
can be quite effective. The thin cable is barely
detectable and you can make a lot of sets without
a lot of cost. However, snares must be used with
precision and the rule to follow is to try and
place out as many as possible. Be sure to anchor
your snare or else the caught mink will carry away
your cable and fittings. Snared mink are mean 
and ornery so be prepared to deal with one mad
animal when caught. And keep in mind that snares
work well when placed in front of den holes. 

      KILL TRAPS ARE ALSO AN OPTION......

   If you know the den hole and don't feel like
dealing with a mad mink snared, set out some kill
traps like the BODYGRIP KILL TRAP. These traps are
fast acting and very effective for animals which
live in a den. Once their home is found, trapping
with a Body Grip is easy. Just set a number 120 or
160 trap, based on the size of the mink involved,
and use a REBAR GROUND STAKE to keep the trap
properly angled and anchored if needed. Make the
set during the middle of the day to insure the
mink is holed up. When it leaves that night you
should have quick success. Body Grip traps can
break fingers easily and their springs can be
hard to compress so you may want to use some
BODYGRIP SETTERS to make the sets easier and 
safer to complete - especially if you intend
on making several trap placements.
   
   
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