RAT CONTROL

   This article is about RAT CONTROL and MOUSE CONTROL.
It will explain why they are a pest and what
needs to be done for controlling infestations.
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	Fall is the time of year when mother nature 
tells animals that winter is coming.  This prompts 
animals to prepare for colder weather.  This 
preparation includes eating more food, hoarding 
food and finding appropriate shelter.  Animals can 
become a nuisance when they use our homes and 
apartments for their nesting.  And throughout North 
America, there are many animals who will move in 
with us if we give them the chance.  Among the more
common to do this are rats and mice!
	Mice are small rodents which can multiply 
rapidly.  They feed on stored products, bathroom 
accessories and all kinds of seeds including bird and 
lawn seed.  We have a few species in America and 
all will invade our properties.  Once inside, 
you will find their droppings where they are foraging 
for food.  Their droppings are small, black, oval 
shaped and about the size of a grain of rice.  Large 
roach droppings look the same so be careful not
to confuse the two.   Mice love kitchens, pantries, 
bathrooms, furniture and cabinets.  They will 
nest in dresser drawers, closets and garages.  
Attics provide adequate nest sites, but mice prefer 
living close to their food.   Attic's and crawl spaces
may have mice living there unnoticed for long
periods of time.  This can lead to odor problems,
damage and mess so any workers or owners
entering these areas should be on the lookout for
telltale evidence of an infestation. 
	Rats are the other rodent which will move into 
any structure man builds.  We have both Roof Rats 
and Norway Rats in America.  Roof Rats are 
excellent climbers and prefer to live in attics or 
cabinets.  They can scale most surfaces and may 
access your property by climbing up brick, stucco or 
wood siding.  Once on the roof, they will find any 
small route of entry.  This includes vents to bathrooms,
gable vents, spaces around soffits, exhaust pipe holes,
spaces between facia boards and roofs and just
about any vulnerable spot.  If none exists, they will chew 
a hole.  Norway Rats prefer to nest in the ground. 
They dig burrows around railroad ties, gardens, 
trees, shrubs and against foundations.  These 
burrows will lead into crawl spaces and 
through cracks around pipes in slabs.  Once inside 
your property, they prefer to nest low in kitchens 
and bathrooms. Both species have droppings about 
the size of a black or red bean.  The Norway Rat 
droppings have smooth round ends but the Roof Rat 
dropping has pointed ends.  Generally speaking, 
these droppings will get larger as the rodent grows 
bigger.  As with mice, rats leave their droppings 
where they travel.  These locations will be where 
rodent control programs need to be implemented.
	Controlling rodents is ongoing.  Successful 
programs start before you have a problem.  Know 
your property.  Look for problem areas outside your 
buildings.  These areas may include dumpsters, 
standing water, creeks, streams, neighboring 
businesses, and drainage systems.  The most
common attractant around the average home
in America include either pet food or bird seed.
The smells from these items is so strong it will
attract several types of animals to your yard.
Once they get a taste of these nutritious foods
they will try to feed there daily. If you suspect
you have rodent activity around pet food or
bird seed, DO NOT REMOVE the food until the animal has
been successfully trapped, relocated or destroyed
using any of the options which this article will
detail. Simply put, rodents are creatures of habit.
If you remove their food source thinking they
will go away YOU ARE WRONG. All you will do is
force them to adapt. This adaptation will generally
lead them to where the food is stored, where
the food came from or where food similar to it
is kept. The bottom line is that removing the
outside food source will more than likely cause
the rodent to come inside your home seeking 
more food. If you leave the attractive food
supply outside and in tact, you will have the
upper hand in dealing with this animal because
you will know it's behavioral patterns which
are centered around the pursuit of food. (Don't
waste your time hoping your dog or cat will
ultimately chase the rodent away. Over 80% of
our customers who have pets have rodent problems.
This percentage is significantly higher than
homes without pets which leads us to conclude
that homes with pets ARE MORE LIKELY TO GET A
RODENT PROBLEM than homes without pets. You may 
not get any for a year, five years or even more 
but at some point, local neighborhood rodents 
will find your home and offerings due to the 
smell of nutritious pet food. Pet food is packed
with more nutrition now than ever as is bird seed
and rodents are able to detect these food supplies
like flares in the night sky. Once found, they will
not easily give up and go away from any feeding
patterns. Use this to your advantage. After the
rodents are successfully removed, you can alter
the outside food supplies to help reduce future
problems but only at such a time that you are
certain there is no activity. A simple thing like
installing a RAT PROOF BIRD FEEDER can prove 
to be a big help. If you have windows which aren't
around ledges or access points for rodents, then
WINDOW BIRD FEEDERS may be an option as well.
Any of these feeders will allow you to minimize 
the waste from birds as well as keep the rats or
mice from stealing all the bird food. If you 
cannot change the environment, (such as having
a big walnut or pecan tree) then locate points 
between the attractant and your structure where 
you may be able to intercept the rodents before 
they get into your home.  Remember, it is always 
easier to keep rodents out.  Once they get in, 
controlling them requires more work, more cost 
and more aggravation. (Another word of advice:
If you know the route of entry to your building,
DO NOT CLOSE OR SEAL THE HOLE UNTIL YOU KNOW
THERE IS NO ACTIVITY AND THE ACTIVE RODENTS HAVE
BEEN REMOVED OR DESTROYED FOLLOWING THE GUIDELINES
IN THIS ARTICLE. This is another critical part
of rodent control. All too many times people will
unknowingly close or seal holes thinking the
rodents will simply go away. Nothing could be
further from the truth. Again, these are creatures
of habit which will stop of nothing short of 
death to reclaim their home. Think of it like
this: If you came home and found all your doors
and windows boarded over for no reason would you
simply walk away never to return? Of course not.
You would do all you could to get inside, claim
your personal belongings and find out what is
happening. The same is true with rodents. When
closed out of their home, they will chew through
wood, plastic, metal and cement to get back inside.
Remember, they are creatures of habit and knowing
their route of entry makes trapping them or using
one of our methods listed below all that much
easier.
	To control existing populations, first 
consider the options.  Methods of control include
poisons, snap traps, glueboards, electrocution and
live traps.  Rodenticide is a poison bait 
which rodents eat.  Most rodenticides are 
anticoagulants which mean they prevent the clotting 
of blood.  The material works by affecting 
different components of the animals body.
In effect, the rodent looses it's ability to have it's
blood clot.  Once an artery or vein ruptures, the animal 
dies.  This can happen from a cut or when the animal
sustains an internal hemorrhage.  Either way, it
has the potential to lead to a mess.  Be prepared
to find rodents randomly.  Make sure to keep them
away from children and pets.  There are risks 
using any rodenticide and you should 
be aware of them.  No rodenticide causes the animal 
to seek water or to die without smelling.  No 
product has ever had this capability nor has any 
manufacturer claimed such a feature.  Though we may
never know for sure where this old wives tale originated
from, it appears that pest control companies started
telling customers this would happen when rat poisons
were first introduced. Customers were not likely to
let poison be used if it was commonly known that
death would be random; telling people rodents would either
seek water outside and die or dry up and not smell
when they deceased was readily accepted by consumers.
Regardless of it's origins, countless mice and rats
have died in attics, crawl spaces and behind walls.
Once dead, their bodies were left to decay. Odors
would permeate into living areas and persist for
weeks. If you have such an odor problem, use NNZ
to remove it. This enzymal compound works two ways.
First, it readily "eats" the odor molecule which is
a gaseous by product emitted by the decaying organic
matter - in this case the body of the rodent. It also
attaches itself to other odor causing molecules created
in the breakdown of the body and causes them to get 
heavy and simply fall from the air. This dual action 
will help eliminate the odor. You will get the best
results if you are able to apply the product directly
where the animal died. If you do not have access to
this area, you can spray NNZ in crawl spaces, attics
and into wall voids where you think the animal died. 
NNZ has no odor so you won't know it's been applied
which means the bad odor may still be detectable for
a short while. If you prefer the product applied to
leave a slight "masking" agent osmell, use the N7Z. This
is the same material as the NNZ but N7Z also has a slight
fresh fragrance that's to help let you know you've applied
it to a certain area and to help cover any offensive
odors that were present. This will help minimize the
unpleasant smell during the time N7Z is working to 
remove the odor.
   Many times odors will develop where rodents have been
active for long periods of time. This commonly happens
in attics and crawl spaces. If you are not quite sure where
they have been traveling use one of our PORTABLE BLACKLIGHTS.
They operate off 4 "AA" batteries and are invaluable at
locating exact locations where rodents have been traveling.
Simply turn down all the lighting and turn on the Blacklight.
Don't be frightened at how many places you are able to see
where urine and feces have been distributed. Along with excrement,
there will be other bad things. Rodents carry disease and
there are all types of virus and bacteria commonly found
where rodents are active. (This is the main reason why
we don't want them in our home). If you have had activity
for a short while, there is probably no reason for
alarm. However, established infestations and any room
or part of the home where odor is detected needs to
be cleaned. To insure you don't inhale virus or bacteria
during cleanup, wear a DISPOSABLE RESPIRATOR. This will filter out
any possible contaminate. To help minimize this risk some 
more, lightly mist water over the area to be cleaned using
a vapor created by a spray bottle or humidifier. The
moisture will help keep dust and contaminates from
getting airborne. Since bacteria and virus will
thrive in rodent droppings, you will need to remove
as much of it that you can find. The best product
for this cleanup is ROUGH'N READY. It is used by commercial
processing plants, hospitals, etc and is very
fast acting and complete. It can be diluted though
you using it at full strength is generally preferred.
It comes in liquid form and can be sprayed or wiped
over areas you need to clean. If you have a lot
of non-porous surfaces like countertops, ceramic tile
or any hard surface where activity has been noted,
get the HOSPITAL DISINFECTANT SPRAY. This is a 
ready to use aerosol which works well at killing any
type of bacteria or virus and will quickly sterilize
without hurting finishes or making a mess. Once you
start the cleanup, be sure to place all rags,
towels, droppings and other contaminants in a plastic
bag for disposal. Wear rubber gloves during cleanup
and be sure to wash your hands, clothing and shoes
following the job. Once cleaned, use our ODOR DESTROYER
to eliminate foul smells. Though the Rough'n Ready and the 
Hospital Disinfectant spray has a clean smell which
will last for awhile, droppings, feces and other
animal fluids have odors which require a special
mix of enzymes to eliminate. Thats what Odor
Destroyer is designed to do. This product works like
Odor Killer but it also eliminates the smells from their
urine and feces. Treat attics, insulation, floor boards,
crawl spaces, dirt floors, floor joists, rafters and
any where activity is noted. The more surfaces that are
carrying the odor which are treated will enable
the product to work both quicker and better. In other
words, Odor Destroyer won't affect areas where it isn't
applied like Odor Killer can.
   If you insist on using a poison for control, understand
that non target animals such as children and pets are also 
vulnerable to these products.  For this reason you must
be extra careful when using any rodent bait and the use of
protective tamperproof bait stations is strongly recommended
to help prevent accidental poisoning. In fact, it's most 
likely all rodent bait will one day soon only be sold in 
protective bait stations. This measure is being done mostly
to prevent the misuse currently happening with rodent bait that
so many times affect non-targeted animals. With that being
said, there are OK locations where the use of bait presents
minimal danger or risk to non-target animals. Vacation homes,
sheds, abandoned lots and commercial buildings are such
places and clearly better suited for these products. In 
general, placements made away from people and pets are
OK and when done properly, the use of rodent bait can be an
effective tool for rodent control.
   The original bait, EATONS AWBB, are still being manufactured
and are a kind of parrafinized block that's formulated with
strong attractants so they are readily found by most any
foraging rodent. Their waxy base enables them to stand up
well in moist or even wet conditions and still be accepted by rats 
and mice. But they've been around a long time and use an active
which isn't the best anymore. They take a long time to kill
targeted animals and even after a lethal dose has been
consumed, targeted rodents will continue to feed which leads
to a lot of bait being used. To help curb consumption of
bait during rodent control programs, newer formulations
have a more acute response time and most all are now what
we call "single feeds". BOOT HILL BLOCKS are one of these newer
bait's which work much faster compared to the Eatons and
in general, a lot less is needed since it's a single
feed compared to the multi feed active in the Eatons AWBB.
And one of the best actives we've found is Bromethalin
because it uses a "stop feed" active. This means once a 
lethal dose has been consumed, the targeted rodents will
stop feeding. This also ensures there won't be any risk
of bait shyness. Bromethalin comes in two forms. 
BROMETHALIN BLOCKS are blocks which ready to be set
out and placed in burrows or hard to reach places. They
are weather resistant and designed to be used in moist
areas like crawl spaces and water retention ditches.
They will work for either mice or rats. BROMETHALIN PELLETS
are place packs and more suited for inside
applications. The semi-porous package enables odor
to release so rodents will find them. Use them when
either rats or mice are the suspected rodent. 
If you want to keep the bait out of sight or protected,
use either RAT or MOUSE Bait Stations. These plastic
boxes are designed to keep the bait fresh and protected.
If the placements will be in commercial buildings or
outside where children or pets may find them, use 
Tamper Proof Stations. These heavy plastic boxes can
be attached to stakes in the ground. Their tops lock
on and can only be taken off with a special key. These
bait stations are designed to keep pets from accessing
the bait. Small children may be able to slide their hands
inside, but the bait is tucked away in chambers which will 
be out of their small hands reach. These bait stations
are available in either RAT SIZE or MOUSE SIZE. For 
maximum security, get the CLEAR TOP TAMPERPROOF RAT SIZE
which have several features making them the best all
around Tamper Proof station available for either rats
or mice. They have the see through top so you don't
have to open them for inspection. They have the
Bait Bars which work with Bromethalin Bait Blocks.
These bars slide through the bait and when properly
inserted into the station will lock the bait into
each feeding chamber so the bait will stay that much
more secure. These also feature an allen key bolt for
the top so you don't need any special key to get
inside along with replaceable bait trays which lets
you keep the station clean. Just replace trays as
they get dirty since clean stations will get rodents
to feed that much faster and consistently. Lastly, you may
have a unique location where stations are needed like on
top of a fence pole or a round tree limb. The stations
listed above aren't the best for such applications but
our TOP LOADING STATION is ideal. It's long pipe like
design enable it to be mounted via screws, nails or
even long cable ties to anything round. Since rodents
will many times find their way into structures via tree
limbs, placing some stations on these pathways can prove
to be very effective at getting them to find your bait
placements quicker leading to faster results.
   To further secure the Tamper Proof Stations from uninvited
guests, use BAIT STATION STAKES to secure them to the
ground. These stakes have a simple way to connect them
to the station and will prevent animals and people
from gaining access inside without the key. (They will
also help prevent the stations from being stolen).
These can only be used on the two flat lying Rat Bait Stations,
which use our item number 287886 and 287892.
   Another poison that can be used is LIQUID BAIT. Though
not too effective for mice (since they are able to
derive their water requirements from the food they eat),
liquid bait works well for rats which are a problem
in dry areas. Set the liquid out in LIQUID BAIT STATIONS
where rodents are active. Like other poisons, be sure
to have such placements away from children and pets.
If you have tamperproof stations installed, liquid
bait can be used in small cups located in the bait
station. Otherwise, the Liquid Bait Stations should
be placed up high, behind appliances, in cupboards,
in attics or crawl spaces or generally out of the
way where only the target rodent is likely to find
it. This will help minimize accidental consumption
by non-target animals.
	Snap traps may offer some help, but have
inherent problems too.  Don't waste your time
with the original design that has a small metal 
trigger.   Instead,  try using an expanded trigger trap. 
Both mice and rats will easily clean the bait off
the old metal trigger traps but doing so is
harder with the expanded version. Another advantage is 
that these traps do not need bait.  Just place them
alongside the wall where the rodent is foraging.  
Be sure to locate the trigger closest to the wall.
The trigger is large and the rodent will step on it. 
Such traps will catch one or two for initial 
cleanouts and preventive maintenance programs,
but don't rely on them if you suspect more than one
animal.  They come in two sizes for either RATS or 
MICE.  Use a lot of them and keep the trigger against 
the wall or in a path you know they are using.
And you might want to consider one of the two 
new styles of "kill traps" which we now offer.
Equally effective, these traps are much safer
to handle and reduce the risk of accidentally
snapping your finger. These traps are the 
SNAP-E SNAP TRAP and the T-REX SNAP TRAP.
Although baiting is not necessary when using these
traps, you should definitely add some TRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN
for mice or TRAPPERS CHOICE LOGANBERRY for rats. These
strong smelling attractants will guarantee that the
trap will be found. However, don't expect to catch
a lot of rodents on this type of trap.  Once the 
population sees others dead, they will
avoid the traps at all costs.  Rats and mice killed
in these devices can create a mess.  Be prepared
to find rodents mutilated, torn apart and in some
cases having their entrails spilled.  Make sure
traps are placed where such a mess will not pose
a health problem.  Since these traps are spring
loaded, a child or pet can easily set them off.
A small child or pet catching their hand or paw 
in such a device could lead to broken bones. This
is certainly true of the Rat Trap which has a nasty
spring. Make sure to place them inaccessible to curious
hands or animals. In some cases, the use of
RAT TRAP STATIONS are warranted. They hold two traps,
have small entrance holes on either side, and can
be used in messy areas where traps have a tendency
to get dirty or disturbed. These Stations are both
heavy and protective so they will shelter the traps
from debris so you don't have accidental triggering
and they will keep unwanted targets away and safe.
Use them in garages, basements, warehouses and even
outside. The Stations are so strong, you can set a
Cinder Block of cement on top to anchor it which
insures most non-target animals won't be able to
get inside.
	Glueboards are another device which
may have seen better days.  These "traps" rely
on the use of non-drying glue to catch
and hold unsuspecting rodents.  The traps
vary in size and are placed alongside walls, 
around cabinets, under furniture or 
refrigerators.  In general, place where rodent 
activity is known to exist.  When the animal steps 
onto the glue they get stuck and cannot pull 
free.  They usually will not quit, however, and
many times will pull a leg, tail or section of
their body apart in an effort to escape.  Again,
this can cause a mess so be careful to 
use these devices where young children
are not likely to stumble upon such a mess.
The author has encountered several mice and rat
caught on these traps which were screaming!
It is a loud, almost human scream and
anyone who has this happen in their
home will never allow such a device to
be used again.  Don't be alarmed if this
happens when these traps are being used. 
RAT GLUEBOARDS must be large enough so that
when the animal gets caught, it cannot drag the
board away. MOUSE GLUEBOARDS need to be small
enough so that many can be placed in all the
small runways they will establish. Use a lot
to insure a quick catch and prevent glueboard
shyness. Use a PLASTIC GLUEBOARD if you have a 
wet area where intend on setting them out. The 
paper design will quickly fall apart; the plastic
tray glueboard will work for both mice and rat
and will last well in wet conditions. And if you
have extra large rat, get the EXTRA LARGE GLUEBOARDS.
These are made with trays and measure a whopping
10" x 12". They hold up well in wet environments
and are sure to secure the biggest rat. If you have
a special need and want to make your own traps, get
some BULK GLUE. This is a very sticky glue which is
used to create traps on any type of flat solid
board, plastic, etc.And if needed, consider
using some HERCULES PUTTY to help hold them
in place. This product is handy for use with
glueboards as well as snap traps and bait
stations.
    Electrocution is another method which may
help in your rodent control management program. 
This method of control uses electricity
to shock the mouse or rat to death. You will
need to know where the animals are feeding or
active. This will be where you are finding
droppings, pathways or nest sights. Install
ZAPPERS where such locations exist. Zappers are
easy to use, work off inexpensive batteries and
are able to deliver a powerful shot of electricity
which will prove fatal to any rodent. Bait them
with whatever it is around in your home they want. 
This is usually pet food, grass seed or bird seed.
You should also add some of our Trappers Choice
paste as well for added attraction.  Try to use
the Loganberry for rat and our Pecan for mice. 
However, if you are not sure which animal you have,
get the Pecan - it works for both. Once they enter 
the device to feed, they will ground out the 
circuit causing a fatal amount of electricity to 
pass through them. This will lead to a painless 
death. Though humane, this type of death can be 
messy. If the animal loses bodily fluids upon
death, it is important to clean the Zapper in
order to have the circuitry work properly. A
damp rag will usually suffice; don't submerge
the unit in water or else you will ruin the electrical
components which are not waterproof. Be sure to
remove dead rodents as quickly as possible. This
is important to insure others won't become shy
of the device. Be sure to place them away from
where children or pets would have access as well.
Though not deadly, the shock would be quite
painful and prove to be a bad experience to any
person or pet. If you have a lot of locations with
activity, you should consider the BATTLE STATION.
This configuration includes a Zapper Monitor along
with Zappers that are equipped with radio transmitters.
These transmitters will send a signal to the monitor
when they have been tripped. The monitor then displays
a red light for any which send the signal which means
you only need to view the monitor instead of having 
to inspect units which may be placed in obscure locations.
The Monitor can handle up to 16 units and the transmitters
are quite powerful since they use the 319MHz frequency.
The signal will pass through glass, wood, plaster board,
insulation and to some degree masonry. This unit
is perfect for large homes, commercial buildings and
apartment complexes. Since you can "see" if there
has been any activity without having to walk hundreds of
yards, the unit pays for itself over time.
	The last option (and best) is to use any of the
live catch traps available. Many people believe catching
rats or mice in live traps isn't possible. But it's
easy once you know where they are active. Check out
this short video clip showing a live trapped roof
rat I was able to catch on my back deck!


  
  Live trapping rodents is not impossible. In
fact, because these devices do not kill or harm 
the animal, most can be caught over and over.  
The latest design of traps will last a long 
time, catch many rodents and be able to catch
even the most experienced and wary rodent.
There are many models available for either
rat or mice.  The Tin Cat, Mouse Master
and Kwik Katch offer multiple catch
capability for mice.  The author has used both
TIN CATS and MICE MASTERS and several times
caught over 20 in them with one setting.
The KWIK KATCH is smaller and will not
hold as many, yet it does an OK job. One of
the more unique designs which enables a multitude
of sets is the LIVE MOUSE TRAP MULTI CATCH.
It can be set out to conform to all kinds
of environments and because it's plastic, it
does fine in wet environments. It's the only
trap that can "bend" around corners effectively.
Use the Kwik Katch or Multi Catch where you have 
moisture since the plastic design is more resistant
to breakdown. If moisture or shape is not an issue,
go with both Mouse Master and Tin Cats for
the best results. The general rule to follow
if trying to decide which trap to get is 
to use a Mouse Master if you have room to
fit it. This trap sets the highest off the
ground and is about the size of two cigar
boxes set on top of one another. If you have
enough room for the dimensions of the
Mouse Master but need to put the trap under
a piece of furniture, use the lower sitting
Tin Cat. It will work just about as well
as the Mouse Master but it's flat profile
enables you to set it where you might not
be able to set the Mouse Master. Use the
Kwik Katch where you know you have a moisture
problem. It is built from plastic and lasts
well in humid, wet environments. To set, place a strong
attractant like TRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN in the 
holding area of the device along with any 
other food stuff they may be eating. This
includes pet food or bird seed. The Trappers
Choice will lure them close and when they
see and smell some of the food they are used
to eating, you will quickly catch them.
The great thing about these traps is that they
don't kill the animals so others do not
become wary or afraid.  In fact, I have
observed a trap with several mice in
it seemingly lure new ones to it.  The 
untrapped mouse would come and circle
the holding area interested with the activity
going on inside.  The smell of food is so
powerful that even after being trapped the
mice do not become upset or frightened. However,
if they are left there for any length of time
and the food supply runs out, they will
become frantic and distressed. Be sure
to place plenty of bait inside to insure
they will be comfortable and quiet once
trapped.  If you are inspecting the device
every day or two, this will not be a problem.
If you are using this device in a vacation 
home or some part of the house where it
is difficult to inspect it daily, you may have
some of them dying before you are able
to empty it.  If the animals are left to die,
they will certainly smell and decay.  Try
to stop this from happening.  Although other
mice will avoid traps with dead animals, once
they are removed and fresh bait is installed,
you will be able to catch more. To prevent any
type of trap shyness from happening, however, try
to prevent any from dying because you left them
in the trap unattended too long. If you are unsure
if you have mice or young rat, you may try getting
our single catch live trap which is universal. It is
very small and generally designed for mice but it
will work for small rat as well. The LT3310 has
vented sides and a rear opening door which makes
it easy to bait and to release trapped animals.
This trap is perfect for catching family pets which
get out in the home since it is the safest live
trap of all with no risk of injury to targeted
animals. It will only catch one at a time but it
has many other benefits which make this the trap
of choice for many applications.
   If you are trying to catch rats, you will need 
to use a bigger trap.  In the trapping industry, we have 
several models that can do the job depending on your
situation. If you have 10 or less animals to catch,
the 5X5X16 GREEN LIVE TRAP will probably do the job.
It's OK for small jobs and strong enough to hold any
rat but don't expect it to last forever. It can be
used inside or outside. It's hard to notice this trap
when placed out in green grass, shrubs or other plant
life in the yard making it ideal for stealthy trap
placement where you may have over curious adults or
children. These traps are commonly used by professionals
as are the commerically built LT5518 and the LT5518RD. 
Either the LT5518 or the LT5518RD will last for many 
years and can be used inside or outside. The LT5518RD
features a rear sliding door making both baiting the
trap and releasing trapped animals easy. For known
heavy or large populations, the use of repeating traps
might make sense. The 3.5 x 3.5 x 24 REPEATER and the
5x5x30 REPEATER RD are true mulitiple catch live traps. 
Both feature two one way doors. When rodents enter the
first door, they are caught in a holding area from
which they cannot escape. Their only option is to 
pass through another door which leads to yet another
holding area. This rear holding area is where most
trapped rat will end up due to their natural curiousity.
The 5x5x30 has a sliding rear door making both baiting
and animal release easier and worth the extra cost.
All of our live traps feature 1/2" by 1" wire which
is mandatory when live trapping rat. The more commonly
used 1" by 1" wire found on many live traps simply isn't
tight enough to hold most rat. They can easily pass
through the 1" square hole so don't use it.


CLICK HERE TO SEE A PHOTO OF A LIVE TRAPPED RAT


CLICK HERE TO SEE VIDEO OF A ROOF RAT LIVE TRAPPED

Bait with whatever food the animals are known to be 
eating and then add TRAPPERS CHOICE LOGANBERRY to make 
it irresistible. Placement of the trap should be where 
most activity is noted.  If the animal is in the 
attic, try to place the trap where their droppings 
are accumulating. If you are finding droppings 
around a garbage bin or storage area in the garage 
or basement where you store bird seed or pet food, 
place your trap there. Another great trap set is 
under bird feeders. Since rodents will readily feed 
on over spill, a trap set at such locations will be 
productive. One other place to set these traps is
along pathways into your home. If you have found
routes of entry you can use them as prime locations
to make trap sets. Follow this rule when determining
to make a set: 1) Try to set the trap as close to
whatever it is they are attracted to or what it is
they are actively eating. 2) If you do not know
what their food supply may be, use one of our
attractive lures coupled with some pet food or
bird seed and you will readily trap them. Place
the trap where you suspect activity as evidenced
by where you have found droppings, chewed entry
holes or where you hear nighttime activity. Once 
caught, relocate the animal either 5 miles away or 
destroy it. 
   We are constantly asked how to destroy rodents and
though we don't recommend one method over the other, 
here are some methods which customers have used
to discard trapped rodents. 

Drowning. This is done by placing the animal
in a bucket of water while still in the trap. You
can also use a stream or pond if one is close by.
It usually only takes 15 minutes and any rat or
mouse will be dead.
Freezing. Placing the trap in a bag and then
in a freezer will cause it to go to sleep and
then to die. This is painless but does take awhile.
Plan on keeping the animal in the freezer overnight.
Suffocating. Though this sounds humane, it can
get difficult to do since it is hard to devise a 
way that removes all air available. Rodents will
prove to be persistent so expect them to hang on
quite awhile.
Electrocution. The Zappers detailed above have
proven to provide a very humane way to destroy
unwanted rats or mice. The easiest method is to
get the LT5518RD and a Zapper. You are then able
to use both for your rodent management at the
same time. Rodents caught with the Zapper are
killed upon capture; rodents caught in the trap
can be destroyed by setting the Zapper at the
back of the LT5518RD. Make sure the Zapper is
turned on and that you have the two devices
tightly pushing up against one another and
then lift the rear door of the LT5518RD trap.
The rodent will readily run to the "comfort"
of the Zapper because it perceives the solid
tunnel to be a safe haven as opposed to the
openness of the wire cage. Once in the Zapper
it will painlessly be killed.

     To stop new rodents from entering structures, you 
have some treatment options. The first is try and 
seal any holes which they can use to get in.  This 
might seem easy to do, but in fact is almost a
never ending job.  Every house the author has
inspected and done closure on had so many entrance 
ways that it would cost over a thousand dollars
to seal tightly with a warranty.  Since rodents are
good climbers, you must look high as well as
low.  Some holes can be sealed with wood but metal
seems to work best. Don't use regular steel
wool for this job since it will quickly rust
out. Get some COPPER WOOL. This product cannot
be chewed through and will not rust. It is 
both easy to cut and easy to stick into access
holes. Be sure to get every point you see and
even those you don't think any rodent could
use to enter. Follow up with PUR BLACK. This unique
expanding material is durable, strong and will
pretty much permanently seal any gaps through
which nuisance animals can enter. For large
jobs where you will be needing to apply several
cans, consider getting the PUR SHOOTER GUN. This
tool is similar to a caulking gun but a lot better.
There are several reasons. First, it has a tip 
shut off. In other words, the Foam you pump through
it comes out a thin tip which is part of the gun.
This tip has an internal cut off which will both
make for clean starts and finishes when applying
the foam. Second, it preserves the foam inside the
tube so it won't dry or harden even though you 
have released it from the refill can. If you have hard
to reach cracks and crevices, the PUR 24" GUN may
suit your needs better. Either gun will require the
PUR BLACK CANNISTER sized can. It's designed to
fit these guns and will prove more economical and
efficient to use for large jobs. For extra
protection, the PUR FOAM W/REPELLENT may be your
best bet - especially when dealing with stubborn
rodents that just won't quick trying to get inside
the target structure. This Foam has a repellent
animals don't like already mixed in and may provide
that extra bit of protection you'll need to keep
them out. You'll need some GUN CLEANER to keep either
Gun Applicator clean when storing it for any length
of time. Watch this video to see how to install the
Copper Wool and then add some Foam Sealent.



   Next, be sure to inspect high up on the structure.
Look along gutters, around vents, windows, decks,
chimneys and any other place where different
elevations meet.  Make sure to cut back 
tree branches and shrubs from the home and
remember that rodents can jump surprising 
big gaps.  It is not unusual for them to jump
over 5 feet to get onto a home they know
will provide either good food or shelter.  They
can scale most deck poles, trellis's, brick,
cedar siding and stucco.  They will enter
through attic gable vents and by using down
spouts they will climb up to a roof and squeeze
through the gap between the rain gutter and
the facia boards.  Be sure to use our Copper
Wool in all these areas. If closing all the holes 
to your home seems like an impossible task,
relax!  Your not alone.  Fortunately, there
are other things you can do which will keep
these pests out without having to do extensive
closure.
     The second option is to repel unwanted rodents.  
A few years ago, a product was released 
called RODENT REPELLENT which is simply 
sprinkled around the building you are trying to 
protect from rodent invasion. It has a faint odor 
which people cannot detect but which rodents do not
like. They will not cross over it and therefore 
it creates an invisible barrier once applied
around the home. It can be used to draw a line
from where rodents may be coming and by doing
so keep them out of your yard. It is safe to
use around pets and children and once applied
poses no hazard to them or the environment.
Applications will last 1-2 months, depending on
local rainfall and sun. If you want to get the
longest residual possible, apply it to the
turf as labeled and then install some
GRANULE GUARDS as well. These will protect the
granules from rain and sun enabling them to
last 2-3 months. The Guards should be installed
every 10-15 feet or as needed around the home. After
rodent activity has ceased, which may take a month or
two depending on local populations, you should only
need to refill the Guards without having to put
out turf applications. It is important to treat
the turf the first time however so be sure to
get enough repellent if you intend on using
Guards. The author was skeptical of the product when
it first came out but field tested it and found
the performance to be good.  The only
time it has failed is when it is spread to
thin or not renewed regularly. It is also important
to realize that it will not get rid of existing
populations. It is designed for keeping new rodents
out. Use the trapping methods described above
for the ones you have and then apply this product
which will keep new animals away. (Another finding
which seems to be apparent is that the Repellent is
somehow absorbing or masking rodent markings and
scent trails. These trails, though invisible to
the human eye, allow rodents to "smell" their
way around. Established rodents have scent trails
which will lead new rodents to vacant territories
as you trap and remove current populations. The
use of Rodent Repellent seems to decrease this
from happening since new rodents are not nearly
as likely to smell the old trails and therefore
are not as likely to find their way inside - a
tremendous benefit!)
   If the rodents you are trying to repel are simply
"rogue" - which means you are not sure where they are
coming from - the best way to use the Granules is
to apply it around the area where you don't want any
activity. For example, rodents love to climb up into
the motor housing of automobiles. There are two
main reasons for this. First, they like the heat
which it provides during the winter months and second,
they love to chew and gnaw on all the small tubes,
hoses and wires which can be found on virtually any
car or truck. This can become both a costly and
aggravating problem. You could set out some of 
the poisons, using the Tamper Proof stations we
have listed above, or you could choose to trap 
them out. However, one of the more practical options
is to use a combination of two repellents. First, set
out the Rodent Repellent using the Granule Guards
under the vehicle. Make at least 4 placements for
the average sized vehicle. These can be set out
underneath the auto when parked and then 
removed when you need to drive. Secondly, you will
need to treat exposed hoses, tubes and wires with
a liquid repellent we carry called ROPEL. This 
product tastes terrible and will stop them from
gnawing treated surfaces. You will need to apply
some about twice a month on average during their
active season. Spray it right on all surfaces 
you have found them gnawing and they will stop.
Ropel simply tastes too bad for them to continue
and when combined with the Granules, will cause
them to go elsewhere.
   Another repellent material which can be used
effectively to keep unwanted rodents away is
called 4-The-Birds. As the name implies, this
material was originally designed to be applied
where you wanted to repel birds such as window
ledges, roof tops and electric lines. It was soon
discovered that the same applications were repelling
rat and mice as well. If you know routes of entry,
particularly a route which uses an object like a
downspout, a fence or a tree, you can keep rats
and mice off such objects by applying this material.
It comes in two forms; 4-THE-BIRDS GEL and
4-THE-BIRDS LIQUID. The gel is good for small
applications. It is applied with a standard calking
gun and you will be able to treat 5-10 linear feet
of surface area per tube. The Liquid can be sprayed or
painted on and will cover a much larger area.
You will be able to use the Gel if you know of one
or two clear and distinct routes the rodents are
currently using to access your structure. If you have
a lot of area to cover and are not sure which are the
prime pathways, use the Liquid. It can easily be
applied in crawl spaces and attics as well to rafters,
sill plate and floor joists and once applied will
keep all rodent activity away. Use a PUMP SPRAYER if
you intend on spraying it to hard to reach areas
and be wary of runoff or over spray. Both forms
act as a non-drying glue and will last 3-6 months
outside; upward of a year or more inside. 
   Another type of repellent to try is the use of
ultrasonics.  These devices have been out for
several years and most make claims beyond
their capabilities.  The COMMERCIAL UNITS
we sell were created for commercial food
processing plants. They can work for many
animals like rodents. There is no doubt
that rodents cannot tolerate the sound
emitted from these devices.  I have not
been able to observe similar results when
they are used on insects.  And most 
importantly, it is not likely that you will be
able to "chase away" existing populations
from your home.  When ultra sound is
used for existing infestations, the rodents
simply relocate to sections of the home or
building where the sound is not reaching.
Since there is an unlimited amount of such
areas, they will inevitably find a new nesting
void away from the sounds annoying range.
Therefore, you still must trap out the ones
currently living there.  Once no activity is
noted for a period of two weeks, you can
install our ultrasonic units or use the repellent
granules to keep new ones out. Try to position 
one at one end of the area so it's sending a 
signal out over the area providing wide coverage.
Since ultrasound cannot penetrate solid objects,
you will lose any protection in areas which
are not wide open. This means foundation walls,
storage and basic insulation can all serve to
prevent ultrasound from getting maximum coverage.
Wide open attics and crawl spaces will provide
the best results; cluttered areas will require
extra units to insure no "dead spots" exist
in which rodents will readily move. Most homes
will get great protection by installing these
where the activity was most noted. This is 
usually in the attic or crawl space. However,
it could be in the garage or living area. Our
Ultrasound Device will not hurt people or pets
so it can be used in these areas if needed. It is
important to realize that you will be best served
installing them at the routes of entry first and
then having extra units for back up if needed.
   Another type of sound that has been found to
keep away mice and rats is the sound of predatory
birds. Hawks and owls feed on rodents in the wild
and both illicit an instinctive fear to rats
and mice. This feeling is natural and though it
is not likely to cause local infestations to 
disappear, one can use such sounds to keep foraging
rodents away. The BIRD SOUNDING DEVICE can be
used for this exact application. It has two 
settings. The first is for when you want to
target a specific area. When set to "detect
motion", the Sounding Device will monitor a small
area, about 3,000-4,000 sq/ft, and when animals
enter this area they cause the device to start
sounding. It will play a series of bird sounds
that will make any rodent very uncomfortable. For 
larger areas, set the device to automatic. In 
this mode it will sound off every 5-30 minutes, 
depending on your choice of setting, and does not 
use the motion detector. Though mostly used outside 
this device is very effective in attics and crawl spaces.
The only limitation is that it won't work when dark.
It has a photocell that deactivates the unit at night.
If your application needs are for night time activity,
place the unit alongside a lamp or spotlight so the
unit it remains on. Since it has a variable sound
setting, you can turn it low so it won't wake
everyone but still be loud enough to chase off
invading rodents.
     
   Rodents have been on the earth longer than
mankind. In fact, the more we thrive, the more
they prosper. We cannot hope to rid the world
of these creatures; like most, they, too, have
a place in nature. However, we can do many
things around the home to help minimize their
intrusions. Once inside, we have several options
to first remove and then keep new ones from
entering. Which ever method you choose to employ,
remember that we as a species are much more
advanced and intelligent than any rat. If you
learn to observe and use a method of control which
works with the rodent's current pattern of behavior
you will get great results. Combining two or
three of the options listed above along with the
use of repellents should not only solve your problem
but keep new ones away. In the end, you will be
able to reclaim your home rodent free!

To see the products listed in the article above,
simply click on the product where it appears
either underlined or in another color. This will
link you to our product catalog where you will
be able to see the product, learn more about it
and it's pricing. 

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