@laurie brookbank: Springtails love nesting in any kind of potted plant where the soil is “contained”. The best product for this the Organic Insect Killer seen here:

Organic Insect Killer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz

It can also be sprayed directly on any vegetable or fruit plant and is perfectly safe to such use.

@mike m.: In the article above we discuss treating under showers and tubs. The short term fix is to dust with the Deltamethrin Dust. Treatments will last 3-6 months. But ideally you should open up the area under the tub as we explain and then treat with the Bifen. Lastly, if the tub is on a slab, seal the tub box and any cracks if you find them.

http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtails-in-bathrooms

@S.: Based on where you’re seeing them, there is one of two things happening. Basements may be considered “dry” to you and your family but to springtails, most any basement slab will attract and absorb enough moisture from the adjacent ground to enable them to thrive. With unfinished basements, the cement walls and floor remain open to the air so this moisture will evaporate. But when these same walls get finished, things change. Moisture will get trapped and though it may not be enough to notice for those of you living in the home, it many times will create an environment ideal for pests like springtails.
Given the fact you’re seeing them on the carpet, my guess is one of two things is happening. The first is that the carpet is trapping enough moisture between the cement floor and the bottom side of the carpeting to create a great nest site for springtails to live. I’ve seen this happen many times on slab homes. And I’ve seen it happen with many pests but springtails are up there as one of the leaders for pests to use this area. To solve this problem, spraying around the baseboard will do the job. In some cases, treating the carpet like you would for fleas by broadcasting a spray over the entire surface of the carpeting might work. But many times this treatment will not reach down under the carpeting so again, you won’t be getting them at their source. This will lead to you continuing to see them. So to get them for good, you must pull up the carpet and lay down a layer of dust before placing the carpet back. You might be inclined to spray but since cement absorbs liquids like a sponge, this would be a waste. Use Pyganic Dust at the rate of 1 lb per 1000 sq/ft. If this area is relatively dry like you say, treatments will last a good 6-12 months.

Pyganic Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/pyganic-dust-10-oz

Now if you pull back the carpet and discover lots of cracks through which springtails might be nesting or using as a way to get inside, you’ll most likely need to focus your treatments to either the area outside the home or directly under the slab. As explained in our article above, springtails coming inside through basement floors will either be nesting there or alongside the home and unless you get them where they’re nesting, not treatment inside will stop them.

Basement Treatment: http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtail-control-for-basement

I’m not sure I’m following your question completely but it seems like you’re asking how to treat the condo’s above you? Well, you don’t. If you review our article above, you’ll learn that the springtails are in fact living and thriving down in the soil (under and around the condo) and from there migrating into your wall space.

Based on where you’re seeing them, they are no doubt coming up through a crack in the foundation wall, under an outside veneer that might be on the foundation of the condo or, if the condo is a slab, through a crack or drain pipe trap which is actually a very common round of entry for them to use. And if there is a bathroom on one side of the wall where you’re seeing activity, my guess is the drain line trap. But regardless of how they’re getting inside, you must address them where they’re entering and where they’re nesting and in doing so, all activity on your floor and floors 2 and 3 will cease.

So for now, try to isolate the entry point and begin the soil treatments explained above if you want long term control. For short term control of the ones you’re seeing in the wall void; treat with either the aerosol or dust.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

If you review our article above, you’ll learn that you need to get the soil around and under the patio slab treated. If you’re lucky, this may be accomplished by spraying through cracks, gaps and seams in the concrete slab. This will work for mild infestations and small springtail populations.

But springtails love living under cement slabs and in many cases their populations will soar making it difficult to get complete control with only a limited amount of spray getting under the slab. If you find your initial treatments don’t end the constant migration, you’ll need to do some drilling of the slab.

To do this treatment, you’ll want to space holes 1 foot apart, about 6-10 inches away from the house foundation, much like the way holes are drilled when treating for termites. Holes should be about 1/2″ wide using a hammer drill to make them. Through the holes you’ll want to pump the Bifen listed above. This can be done via a Termite Treater or a Foaming Tool. By saturating the soil under the slab, you’ll get the springtails where they’re nesting which in turn will end the migration.

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Foaming Tool: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foamers/solo-2-gal-foamer

Slab Treater: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/termite-treater-kit

We have all the products listed in the article above. Just click on any product where you see it capitalized and in the color “blue”. This will link you over to the product page where you’ll see packaging, pricing, etc. We ship pretty much within one business day too.

Drilling holes to gain access under the tub would be ideal. And applying the Deltamethrin dust would impact them the best because it would both last much longer than the Dforce and it will kind of “suffocate” the springtails as they get active in the open area under there. We’ve found the dust does the best overall job for hidden voids like wall spaces and areas under the tub or cabinets, etc. so you’re right in what you’re thinking.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Just don’t forget to consider getting a visual under this area because many times the springtails are coming up through drain pipes, water lines and even the bath tub trap. If you find there is a trap under the tub, you really need to spray it with the Bifen liquid and then seal it up with a thin coat of cement. This way it can easily be broken up should anyone need access. But coating it with a thin layer of cement will prove way too thick for any pest to enter so it’s a good way to seal them out if you find a large access point under there.

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Based on what you experienced last year, it’s important to realize your problem will not be resolved in any small amount of time. I fully expect you can beat them but it will most likely take 1-2 years of steady treating. This is explained in our article above and happens because the springtails living in the ground must migrate somewhere. So even though you’ll be putting up a barrier and killing thousands of them right away, they’ll just be so many coming up behind them that some will get inside no matter what you do since you’re only now just starting. This is because our products will only get down a few inches and the springtails are nesting and reproducing much deeper in the soil. Now if you stick with the program, eventually you’ll get the product to penetrate enough so there will be more and more of a void between where they’re living and your home. And once this space gets big enough, you won’t be seeing them anymore.

As for the treatments; the Bifen G should be applied around the home throughout the entire “warm” season. That means if you do a treatment now, retreat every 30-45 days till the fall.

As for the Cyonara; use it following every granule treatment.

Now could the springtails be coming up from the basement? Yes. But if they were, you’d see them throughout the basement so just go down and see if they’re present. If you see them and feel like treating down there, you’ll need to use the Bifen Concentrate and not the granules or Cyonara mentioned above as they’re for the outside only. The Bifen concentrate is odorless and can be sprayed inside the home, even on carpeting, so it will be safe enough for the basement you described too.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Sorry for the delay in not answering sooner but we’ve been very busy given the warm temps outside. To answer your question; the Complete Granules are a good option and first on my list of alternates to get. Essentria is very good too.

Lawn Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/complete-insect-killer-granules

Essentria Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/granule/eco-exempt-org-g-22-lb

First things first. It’s important to understand that springtails rarely live above the ground so what you’ve been experiencing is an “invasion” and not an “infestation”. Roaches in your cupboards, mice living under the stove or meal moths in your cereal would be considered an infestation because the pest is in fact laying eggs, hatching eggs, pupating and cruising around as an adult inside the home. In other words, they’re living their entire life in your house. But insects like springtails and termites are invading pests (live outside and come inside when populations are excessive) and in general, do not live above ground. So what you’re seeing is in fact a symptom of a far bigger problem (the fact that the soil surrounding your home is filled with springtails) and not the problem itself.

Second, once you understand this big difference, you’re train of thought will be one that can solve the problem and not the typical mindset which only serves to place a “band aid” on the problem. What I mean by this is that most people feel they must spray where they see the springtails or maybe dust the wall spaces where the springtails are traveling and that this alone will stop the migration. This is very far from the truth. And though we recommend doing these things, the reason is so that you don’t develop a springtail problem in these areas because we have seen where they can migrate into such areas and then start living because there is enough moisture to accommodate them. This isn’t common but it can happen which is why dusting and spraying is suggested when you see them around the baseboard, bath tub, door frame, patio slab, porch, etc.

So to answer your question about the dust; by all means dusting will help. But not the drain lines! Any dust applied down there will just wash away and be useless as soon as you use the sink. But if in fact you have springtails emerging from your sink line, it would be a good indicator of what the real problem is: springtails living in the ground adjacent to the home. Over the years we have seen homes with septic tanks tend to get both drain flies and springtails. So I’m guessing you have a septic tank on your property and the springtails are merely migrating up the pipe line. Now if you don’t have a septic system, it would stand to reason that the drain line you have in place has sustained an injury (a crack) and through this crack is how they’re entering and then migrating up the pipe. Either way, treating by pouring anything down the drain is not the way to proceed because it will only kill the migrating springtails and not get the ones that are mating and reproducing which is the source of the problem!

So what is the right treatment? The right treatment is the one that gets this pest where it lives: in the ground. And this process will be applying the Bifen Granules and spraying over the top with the Cyonara RTS over and over, every month, year round. This process will eventually bring the springtail levels down so low that there won’t be any in the yard available to migrate inside. But it will take time. Maybe 1-2 years of steady treatments, whether you see springtails or not, because they don’t migrate all the time.

But one day there won’t be enough available on the property to migrate inside and that’s when you’ll have true control because in fact they never really “went away”. They just were’t in what we call “migration mode” so you weren’t seeing them. But every time they migrate you will have them coming inside until you get with the treatment program which will reduce their numbers enough so they cannot generate the numbers that will allow them to get inside.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Sorry for the confusion but if you read through the section above about springtail nests, you’ll learn that most any yard can serve as one giant nest.

Springtail Nest Sites: http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtail-nest-locations

Sure there tends to be focal points like areas under a slab patio, planters or a low lying part of the property. But first and foremost you must attack the entire yard with the mindset that every inch of it is harboring springtails. Do this with both the Bifen Granules and the Cyonara RTS.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Next, treat the planters you suspect could be a problem with these products too. And certainly treat extra heavy through any cracks or seams you can find where patio slabs attach to the home as this can many times help dramatically. These cracks can very well be where water is leaking down to the ground below thus enabling the springtails. By treating these locations directly, you can really knock them back.

Lastly, get dust applied to any wall void where activity is noted like under the bathtub and in the wall under the window sills. And if the home is a slab, focus in on any slab cracks or expansion joints since springtails will regularly use such locations to gain access to inside the home. Now if you seal these entry ways and still find springtails emerging and getting through the sealant, you’ll have to resort to sub slab treatments (if the home is a slab) as explained above.

So to answer your question more directly; it’s never really feasible to first identify and then treat specific springtails nests. But identifying the most likely nest sites on your property will no doubt serve you well in your quest to get these key areas treated. So once you locate them, go about resolving any moisture issues you can correct and then by treating them all as if they are all are infested and you’ll get positive results. Good luck.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Good question. And the quick answer is that a normal termite treatment is not likely to solve the problem. Here’s why.

As explained above, most all springtail populations found above ground inside or adjacent to the home will in fact originate from a large area just outside the structure. This is usually a flower bed, mulch island or just a wide open, moist yard. And since a standard termite treatment will not have treatments done to these areas, it’s highly likely the springtails will continue to thrive and migrate from them following the termite job. That means regardless of how much chemical is applied to the ground surrounding the home, they’ll be able to get past the chemical and into the living areas. This means you’ll see them. Yes, most will end up dying because of the exposure they have passing through the treatment but never the less, they’ll be a major nuisance.

Now if the “porch” you mention is in fact a slab and the main nest sight for the springtails in under the slab, drilling and treating it will help. But even this won’t knock them out unless the entire slab is drilled and treated and this is never done during a “normal” termite application. Generally what does happen is that the slab is drilled and treated where it butts up to the home so most of it will still be untreated. This means there will be plenty of areas for the springtails to continue to thrive and over populate under the slab and as this happens, they’ll continue to migrate.

So in summary, it’s most likely you’ll need to treat the turf with the Bifen Granules and if you have slabs that might be harboring springtails, drilling and treating under as much of it as possible would be a big help (whether you get a termite job or not).

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

When people have pets that eat grass, we always tell them to refrain from spraying it. So if you’ve been broadcasting the grass with the Bifen XTS, don’t use it anymore since the sprayed grass is being eaten by your pet.

As for applying granules; they would actually be okay. You see, if you apply them properly the granules won’t be “on the grass” but instead down at the soil level and barely detectable. Especially after you water them in. So to use the granules, first remove the pet, treat with the granules, water them in and allow them to sit for an hour or two before the pet comes back onto the treated area. Following this procedure would remove any hazard even if some of the grass was eaten.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

As for the siding; the Deltamethrin Dust would be ideal for such an area. I suggest you get as much as you can up under the siding and into the wall void. I also suggest you treat with the liquid Bifen XTS along the foundation wall (much like what is done for termites) because there is a good chance they are nesting in this area too.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

First, review the section in our article above that explains what is most likely happening. If in fact they’re coming up from your drain line, it means you either have a septic tank system in place for the home or you have a cracked drain line.

Springtails in Sinks: http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtails-in-sinks

The treatment options for either drain line scenario are explained in detail above. If you have further questions let us know.

If you review our article above, you’ll learn that what you’re seeing in the home and in the pool are “migrating” springtails. They are the “surplus” members of a nearby nest site and once that site gets over crowded, they’ll start to migrate and relocate. It’s during this process that they’ll rise up out of the soil and get into your pool and home. And unless you treat the source of the problem, this will continue indefinitely.

So at this point there is nothing you need to do different in your pool because they’re not actually living in the pool water. No doubt there are some directly under the pool and all around it, on the ground, and in some cases even in the pool walls. I’ve seen where they’ll move into these areas because they provide a nice tight nest site and moisture. I’m talking about the metal siding of the pool, which holds the liner, where they’ll nest.

In the end, if you don’t get them by treating with the Bifen Granules in the entire yard (especially around the pool) and then spray over the top with the Cyonara RTS, the problem will only grow worse. And I recommend inspecting the walls of the pool to make sure they’re not living in there. If they are, treat with the Dforce Aerosol to take away this nest site too.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

As explained in our article above, what you’re seeing are springtails that are migrating from a nest which is most likely located in the ground around the home. To stop this inward migration, you’ll have to treat the outside enough to knock them out where they’re nesting. To accomplish this goal, you’ll need to start on the ground using a combination of the Bifen Granules and Cyonara RTS.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Now in many cases these migrating springtails will find moist pockets on a structure where they can live and thrive as they’re migrating. Common areas include drain lines, sinkerators, bathtub drain lines, window sills, roofing tiles, rain gutters and house siding. Inside the home where you’re seeing them appearing in sinks or tubs, spray some Gentrol Aerosol down the drains weekly. It only takes a couple of seconds to treat these locations and the Gentrol will help by preventing them from breeding successfully and growing in the pipes.

Gentrol Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/gentrol-aerosol-16-oz

For the roof, gutters and outside siding, you’ll need to first do a thorough inspection to see if they are any living in these areas. If you find any pockets of them nesting, you’ll need to treat accordingly with either the Deltamethrin Dust or the Dforce Aerosol.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

In the end it’s getting them where they’re nesting that will prevent you from seeing any inside because there is no spray that can stop them while they’re migrating. So matter how much your service sprays inside, the springtails will keep appearing until you get them at their source which is most likely somewhere outside the home.

When springtails migrate, they end up anywhere. I’ve seen them on a wide range of furniture including beds, sofa’s, chairs and couches. But I’ve also seen them on kitchen tables, medicine cabinets, dressers, armoires, book shelves and light fixtures. And after finding them in such a wide range of locations, I learned where they end up is essentially meaningless because in all cases once we treated their nest site, they disappeared and stopped coming around. And since I know they’re not nesting in your bed, I’m certain the same will happen with your springtails. Find their nest and get it treated and you won’t be seeing anymore in the home: not even in your bed.

If you read our article above, you’ll learn that springtails thrive in soil and since the soil around any home is many times quite good for them to live, any home with healthy soil will have springtails. Now when conditions are really good, they’ll populate to such excess that the surplus numbers will migrate up and out of the dirt due to over population. And based on your message about seeing them last year, it no doubt sounds as though the soil on your property has begun to get maxed out. That means that once it gets moist again, their numbers will start growing rapidly.

So to answer your question; no, it’s not likely the snow had any direct impact on the local springtail population. In fact, what you should expect is that if you have a drought period of several months, their numbers will drop. This will happen whether it’s winter or summer. And the same holds true for the summer months.

During any drought they’ll go dormant and you won’t expect to see any. But once the soil gets moist again, their population will surge and the surplus numbers will begin to migrate up and out. It’s then that you’ll start noticing them again.

But you can avoid this from happening if you take direct action right now to reduce their numbers. And that action is to do some simple outside applications in the yard. In fact, taking a pro-active stance outside the home now will greatly reduce the chances of them getting inside in the future.

And what would the treatments involve? Nothing more than the Bifen Granules applied to the turf and the Cyonara RTS sprayed over them. And if you start doing this every 2-3 months throughout the year, the springtails will never be able to get re-established to such numbers that they’ll be forced to migrate. And if they’re not migrating, you won’t be seeing any.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

First and foremost, springtails cannot cause damage. Second, they don’t live in boxes. Now could some migrate up and into a box? Yes. But I feel it necessary to point out that Psocids closely resemble springtails and many people confuse the two. And since Psocids thrive in books, boxes and anything paper, if what your tenant is seeing is small, alive and crawling around, chances are high they have Psocids and not springtails.

Psocids: http://www.bugspray.com/psocids.html

Regardless of what this pest turns out to be, reducing the moisture in any unit will help control most every pest. In fact, Psocids won’t live unless they have a certain level of moisture and springtails require even more moisture. A lot more.

And as our article above explains, when migrating springtails come up out of the ground, they mostly die. This usually happens within a few hours of them being exposed to the elements. Now could they survive? Only if it was really, really damp in those boxes. And it would have to be almost to the point of the boxes being “wet”.

So at this point I’d recommend keeping the units as dry as possible to reduce the chance of any insect living inside them for any length of time. I also recommend treating as our article explains if you want to keep the problem from getting worse because if in fact these are springtails and you don’t treat, the problem will only get worse with it being just a matter of time before they start appearing in other units.

As explained above, springtails migrate from the outside and once they get onto a house, most will die. In some cases they are able to locate a “wet” spot on the home which can serve as a nest site and in this situation, it appears they have found such a site on your home.

But it also appears they’re not nesting in the room where you’re seeing them. In fact, in the cases where I’ve seen them nesting on a home, they were living in a range of spaces just outside the room where they were being seen. This meant that no matter what was done inside the room, it didn’t help. What helped in all these cases was treating the various voids where they could be nesting and once we hit the main nest void, we solved each problem. So here’s what I recommend you do.

First, forget about any “inside” treatments. And forget the dehumidifier. All you’re doing there is wasting electricity. Your problem stems from an “overload” of springtails migrating from a void outside the room and it’s there where you must treat. And as long as these voids remain untreated, the springtails will continue to thrive, reproduce and “overload” the space thus leading to some migrating inside. And as long as you allow them to live in these spaces, they’ll continue to migrate inside the living spaces.

Second, get some Deltamethrin Dust and start treating all the spaces where they can be hiding. This will include the wall voids with extra attention being paid to the spaces under any windows in the room. Windows many times leak and commonly create ideal locations for springtail nests.

Third, dust under the exterior siding. Masonite, cedar shakes or even asbestos siding tiles are all excellent locations for springtails. These tight cracks can harbor moisture which can readily feed a springtail nest. Basically any siding can serve as a nest space with the only exception being brick.

Fourth, dust in the attic space above the room. While in this space, look for any leaks from the roof above.

Fifth, dust under the roof shingles. This is one of the their favorite locations to nest since the roof decking can absorb and retain moisture well yet never show it anywhere below. And once it gets wet, the decking will attract and host a wide range of pests including springtails.

Sixth, focus a good dusting on the gutters, specifically where they mount to the home, and make sure they’re cleaned out good. Clogged gutters can be an excellent location for outside nests as can the facia boards behind them, the soffits and the roof line where it overhangs onto the gutters.

Seventh, remove any exterior plant boxes located on the home. I’ve seen where plant boxes hanging on the outside of the windows can harbor springtails and from there they can migrate inside.

Eighth, pull back any mulch you have up close to the home. Do this around the entire home. And trim back any tall or excessively growing ground cover making sure you have a good “space” between the home and the ground so this area can dry out and not retain as much moisture as it will if you have plants or mulch filling the space.

Now if you dust all the locations listed above with the Deltamethrin Dust, there is no way springtails (or any other pest) will be able to nest on or in your home. And since these treatments will be done to hidden areas where no pet or person will have the chance of getting any exposure to the treatment, there will be no hazard to people or pets.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

The Bifen Granules will penetrate through the rocks. Basically the active will be released and slowly trickle down to the soil below. This will happen whether you have rocks or soil.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

As for the “treatment tubes” and using Bifen through them; I cannot comment on this system since I’ve seen many different configurations and they’re many different types. And in general, the use of an Aerosol or Dust for any wall void is best and not a liquid spray so my best guess is no, the Bifen liquid would not be good to spray and our recommended dust would be the way to go.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

If you read our article above, you’ll learn that springtails nest in the ground and once their population gets thick enough, they’ll start migrating up. That means if your home is built on a slab and they’re nesting under the slab, you’ll be seeing them inside indefinitely until you treat the source of the population which is almost always the soil under and surrounding the house.

Now once they start migrating into a home, the problem tends to get worse and worse until you get it properly treated and reduce the numbers at their source. Additionally, a proper treatment for a slab can be tough. Here’s why.

Slabs have many routes of entry that springtails will use. The most common entry points will be around toilets, bathtubs, shower stalls and sink drains. These are commonly used because a) there is water in the area they need and b) the cement slab usually doesn’t seal around the pipe completely so there will be little holes and cracks through which foraging springtails can easily fit. These areas will naturally be moist and attract all kinds of pests and once they find this spot under the slab, they’ll be able to crawl up and into the living spaces.

So the first thing you can do is seal all these entry points with some Pur Foam. This is a special sealant that is ideally suited for home construction. Use this under bath tubs in the pipe trap. It should also be used around sink drain lines where they pass through cement, where electric lines come up through the cement and into any cracks in the cement you find under carpeting or tile.

Pur Black: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/aerosol/pur-black

Next, you should treat the outside lawn surrounding the home with some Bifen Granules and then spray over the top with some Cyonara RTS as explained in our article above.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Lastly, if this doesn’t get them, you’ll have no choice but to drill through the slab and pump some Bifen Liquid using a Foaming Tool. Ideally you should treat as much of the slab as is possible focusing on the areas where the springtails are the worse. This will usually be where expansion joints exist and these joints are usually along the exterior walls.

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Foaming Tool: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foamers/solo-2-gal-foamer

In my experience, about half the homes I’ve treated for springtails were successful in doing nothing but the outside treatments. But in the other half of the problem homes we were forced to drill and treat inside, under the slab, because in fact the springtails were nesting under the home and without foaming under the slab, we were never able to reduce their numbers enough to stop them from getting inside.

Springtail Slab Treatments: http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtail-control-under-slabs

Like most pests, treating early or before you have a major springtail problem is very much worth the time and effort. This is because you can essentially head them off before they get established and in doing so, prevent major headaches because as you can see from the posts above, springtails can be a serious problem!

So if you haven’t been doing so, I’d say to start applying some Bifen Granules around your home every 2-3 months and spray over the top with some Cyonara RTS following each granule application. This treatment will actually stop everything from coming to your home including ants, crickets, sowbugs, scorpions, roaches, silverfish and springtails. And because you’d be treating before you actually have a problem, you’ll be able to use a lot less material and treat a lot less frequently – an option that people with springtail problems cannot consider doing because once you have them, it will take a lot of treatments and a lot of chemical.

So for now, I’d say to start here and with any luck you’ll be able to get any developing springtail population under control with these quarterly applications before things turn for the worse. And even if there isn’t a major problem developing, keeping the local pests in check makes sense so doing some applications is a smart maintenance routine for any homeowner.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Same as listed in our article above: you need to get them where they’re nesting and that will no doubt be the soil surrounding the home. Not surprisingly, homes made predominantly with concrete tend to have more problematic entry ways. I have seen many times where the brick and concrete will separate enough to effectively “channel” the springtails up and into areas like windows. Hair line cracks in the mortar is all it takes for these guys to enter the foundation wall and then track up and inside living areas. This means the soil treatments must be extra heavy alongside the house, against the foundation, much like a termite job, so you get them where they’re reproducing.

Additionally, using the Dforce Aerosol into all the cracks and crevices can help. Especially on the outside walls where any cracks are found. So for now, I’d use the Dforce around all windows and door ways. I’d also spray all the cracks I could find on the foundation under and around the home just under the windows as these could be the main route of entry to the living spaces. Lastly, get the Bifen Granules and Spray applied heavy around the structure and if you do that enough over time, you’ll decrease their levels so little if any migration will occur inside.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

As explained in our article, springtails can migrate large distances when leaving their main nest site so they will commonly end up on the second floor of homes and even on furniture and clothing. Fortunately they’re easy to kill and any vacuum will remove them without making a mess. For now you should start by vacuuming up any you find in the living space as this is both easy to do and the least “messy” quick response that will work well.

But if you want to get rid of them for good, you’ll need to start treating as our article explains. In most cases that means lots of granules and liquid spray outside the home.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

As for the bathroom; get some Survivors down the sink and Dforce into all the cracks and crevices around the sink cabinet where it attaches to the wall.

Survivors: http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/survivors

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Lastly, dusting all the wall voids where they might be living can also help. The walls which are usually involved will be the exterior walls. These can really be a problem area when homes have siding (aluminum or vinyl) on their exterior or if they have gutter issues that might be allowing the springtails to live along the roofline of the home. Excessive moisture is what springtails need once they leave the ground and in some cases they’ll find enough moisture above ground to allow them to thrive. And if this is the case at your home, dusting the wall voids between you and where they’re living can help aid in preventing them from getting inside. However, solving the moisture problem is always the best remedy so if you have any leaks or gutter concerns, get the fixed.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

If you read through our article above, you’ll learn springtails thrive in the ground and will saturate healthy soil with an ever increasing population until it reaches large numbers which in turn causes them to migrate up and out of the soil. And once they start migrating out into the open, you’ll start seeing them on structures, in your newly installed pool and ultimately inside your home. Rest assured this would have happened whether you decided to install a pool or not and seeing them following the pool installation is merely coincidence and nothing more.

In our article you’ll also learn the treatment for springtails involves lots of Bifen Granules and Cyonara RTS sprayed over the top. This treatment regime will have to be followed for 6-24 months in most cases because it takes a lot of treating over a lot of time for any benefit to be realized. This is just the nature of the beast but if you follow the treatment program, you can reduce them to manageable levels.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

My fingers are definitely tired of typing answering the same questions and what makes it extra tiring is that we only see this line of questioning with springtails!

So here are the answers to your questions: Yes, yes and yes! Sorry, I couldn’t resist..

First, sorry for getting you a bit confused. But you have no doubt identified the common theme here for controlling this pest so the information must be making some sense!

Second, get as much of the yard treated with the Bifen granules and then spray over the top with the Cyonara. And spray the foundation too going up around 5-10 feet.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Next, use the Dforce inside injecting some in every crack and crevice where they are active.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Lastly, your family and pets will be fine as long as you keep them away and off the treatment for a few hours after you treat but once it’s dry, there is no hazard when used properly. And don’t be afraid to treat often. If it was my home, I’d treat weekly if they came back that soon. But even when they’re gone, don’t stop. Treat at least monthly for maintenance and as often as is needed when they’re active.

I’d start by treating around the home mostly. Basically an area that’s as wide as each side of the home and then at least 10 feet out into the yard as well. And that would be the minimum about to treat because really, the more the better. And in this area I’d apply the Bifen Granules and spray over the top with the Cyonara.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

As for product safety; just click on the above listed products and at the bottom of both product pages you’ll see safe videos. These videos cover all you need to know in order to safely handle, apply and store our products.

If you read the article above, you’ll learn that at this point you’ll need to start applying the granules outside and spraying over the top ASAP if you wish to stop the invasion.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Inside, vacuum furniture where they appear but baseboards and window frames should be sprayed with Phantom.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Next, treat all cracks and crevices with Dforce.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

And yes, you can call a pest control service to do this work for you. Alternatively you can do the work yourself and by doing so, save a lot of the cost. The products listed above are the same professional products a service company would use so in the end, you can get the same results with a little effort. More importantly, by doing it yourself, you can regulate how much material is applied which could turn out to be critical. Springtails need to be treated a lot and when using a service, it can be difficult to get them to come around frequently enough. And don’t waste your time with store bought products; only the items listed above have been proven effective for this pest.

Everything sounds right in regards to what you’re doing except one thing I didn’t see you mention: Cyonara RTS. You must spray the Cyonara RTS over the Granules at least every 2 weeks when you apply more of the Bifen. Remember, the granules are for long term control but the liquid spray will kill springtails on contact and needs to be done at least as frequently and in some times, weekly if the springtails are returning that quickly.

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

As for the patio slab; I’d say it’s most likely it’s the ground surrounding the slab where they’re thriving and if you hit the entire ground around the home with the Cyonara, you should see another marked improvement. Do this before considering the foaming job.

@Laura: There will be no problem treating with the Cyonara and Bifen granules. Nothing “super toxic” will be created nor will any cross treated area “cancel” out the other chemical so the all these compounds will be able to co-exist fine.

As for the lack of impact on springtails from the other compounds that have been applied; chances are high it has to do with the very little amounts that were used. You see, in general, most any pest can be conquered using small amounts of mixed product. And the products you listed are generally only used in small amounts like 1 gallon or less.

But for springtails, you’ll need to apply 10-20 gallons of finished spray to have any kind of positive impact. So follow our directions on how to use the Cyonara on the turf and house and I’m sure you’ll see a big reduction following the application.

Lawn Spray: http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtail-control-lawn-spray

The Complete or Essentria Granules would be equally as effective as the Bifen so apply one or the other to start.

Lawn Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/complete-insect-killer-granules

Essentria Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/granule/eco-exempt-org-g-22-lb

And the Cyonara RTS can be sprayed on the turf and foundation too. As explained in our article, you should apply a lot of this material and since the ground and house needs to be soaked, the Cyonara is ideal for this location over the Bifen IT.

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Now for inside baseboards, the Defense SC is a great choice. It’s odorless, long lasting and works on most any pest including springtails.

Defense: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/suspend-sc

And don’t forget the Dforce and Delta Dust. The Dforce is ideal for cracks and crevices that can be seen in the room. The Delta Dust should be applied to the hidden voids behind the walls.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Based on the description you provided, I doubt what you saw are springtails since springtails are so small. Now just what they were are anyone’s guess. Bedbugs are what first come to mind but it could have been anything. And though you feel the water might be the reason they came around, my intuition says there is most likely something else going on (like some kind of infestation in the mattress, bed frame or in the room close to bed).

At this point I recommend getting some Bed Bug Rid. This product can be sprayed on the bed, the bed frame and throughout the bedroom. It’s a federally exempt product which means it’s very safe for use in such sensitive areas and though it’s most commonly used for bed bugs, it will kill any insect.

Bed Bug Rid: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/liquid/bed-bug-rid-exempt-liquid-insect-killer

Now if you start finding dead insects in the days following the treatment, give us a call to discuss what you found and how to best resolve the problem should it turn out to be something that’s more involved than just treating the bedroom.

Go with the Deltamethrin Dust as listed in our article:

http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtail-control-in-crawl-spaces

No risk of “chasing” them anywhere. Here’s why.

The ones you’re seeing are trying to relocate from a densely populated soil and really stand no chance of living once they are exposed and out in the open. That being said, you don’t want them around because as they move through the yard, some will get closer and closer to your home and in the process, mate and start new populations. So for now, get some Bifen Granules applied along with the Cyonara RTS or one of the other sprays listed on that page to make sure this doesn’t happen.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Here are some answers:
1) Get the Bifen G and the Bifen XTS. It will prove to be the most economical and effective over time.
2) I would apply the granules at least once a month using 25 lbs for every 20,000 sq/ft of turf. So if you need to treat the entire 1/2 acre, expect to going through 1 bag per application. With the Bifen XTS, expect to be using 8-12 oz per treatment depending again, on how many sq/ft you’re actually treating. Remember that if you live on a 1/2 acre lot and the house, driveway, etc. are all part of that lot, the actual amount of turf you’ll be treating will be a lot less than 20,000 sq/ft.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Bifen XTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

As for the frequency of treatments; here’s what you do.

If you’re seeing springtails in the yard like on mulch or concrete, treat. And if they come back to these area sooner than 1 month, treat when they return. But if you aren’t seeing any outside, follow the once a month treatment routine for the outside only. And try to treat year round. Here’s why.

Springtails will get active in the winter on warm days so if you treat and the ground freezes, that’s okay. The treatment will “lock” in place and either hold all winter (and during this time you won’t have to spray since it will be frozen). Now should it warm, the treatment will “kick in” and use itself up so if any springtails get active, you’ll be ready. And if the warm temps last for an extended amount of time, treat some more.

3) Survivors should be applied once a week, late at night, and allowed to set over night without running the water. This should be done in any sink that has springtail activity. Gentrol Aerosol would be applied the following night, same time, and allowed to set over night too. Both should be done once a week during the warm season and only break from this during the winter if you’re not seeing them inside when it’s cold out. As for the Dforce; apply that inside as frequently as you see activity. So if you see them around a window and treat and then just 3 days later they’re back, treat again. Basically treat as needed.

Survivors: http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/survivors

Gentrol Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/gentrol-aerosol-16-oz

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Doing your own pest control can save money and insure the treatment is being done properly and thoroughly. When it comes to springtails, there is no way you can resolve any significant problem with quarterly applications. If you read our article and subsequent comments, you’ll see it requires a thorough application at least once a month outside and even more inside if you have a bad problem.

And given the fact that you continue to have an earwig problem following the service is disturbing because earwigs are in fact easy to control. So if they’re not able to take care of that problem, there is no way they’ll ever be able to take care of your springtail problem.

In summary, you should either hire a service company that promises to be a lot more aggressive with their service or simply do the work yourself.

Yes. The links to all the products above will put you on our shopping cart product pages. At that point you can “add” to your cart and when you’re ready to pay for your order, you’ll get to the “secure” section of our cart which is used for the checkout process.

As explained in our article, they are coming from outside. Also explained in the article is that problems like this don’t start overnight and in fact usually take 3-6 years to develop. So based on your story, you’re right on track.

As for how to get rid of them? That’s easy. Start applying the Bifen Granules around the home as prescribed above followed by liquid treating with Cyonara RTS.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

And for the inside, Dforce or Phantom Aerosol’s for the ledges and window areas.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

I’m afraid any mechanical control like you suggest won’t help keep them away for good. Here’s why. Springtails exist throughout the world in all shapes and forms. Now what we know is that in regions where the soil is nutritious and moist, they tend to thrive. And where they thrive they can produce fantastic numbers.

Eventually these numbers will have to migrate and it appears that they can migrate through a good 25-50 feet of springtail free soil and make themselves visible in areas one would think they could never reach. So even if you had all your soil removed and replaced with springtail free soil, it would only be a matter of time some returned and started the process all over again.

Which leads me to your question about removing all your mulch; yes, it’s possible that doing this could reduce the amount close to your home but will it prevent springtails from entering your structure? No way. I say this because when springtails migrate, they can move great distances in little time. And more important, nothing can stop them. No spray, no barrier, no sealant, etc. This is why treating as much of your property as thoroughly as possible on a regular basis is the only known way to get rid of them and keep their numbers minimized.

So in summary, doing what you want to do should help the problem. Just don’t do so hoping it will get rid of them for good because in our experience, it’s just not that easy.

If you review our article above, you’ll learn that there is a lot more you’ll need to do. Here’s the drill:

First, apply Bifen Granules around the outside of the home treating as much of your property as possible. Do this monthly. Next, spray over the top of the granules with the Cyonara RTS. Do this right after you apply the granules so that would be monthly too. Now the Cyonara can be sprayed more than once a month and should be if you find springtails active outside in between treatments. This treatment routine should be followed every month for at least 1-2 years.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

For inside treatments, dust wall voids, under light switch covers and any space with Delta Dust using the Hand Duster.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

For exposed surfaces, spot treat with Phantom.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Lastly, for the sinks, use Survivors once a week and Gentrol Aerosol applied the night afterward once a week too.

Survivors: http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/survivors

Gentrol Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/gentrol-aerosol-16-oz

If you go back and read our article again, you’ll learn that what you’re experiencing is NOT an invasion but in fact a migration. This is a very different event.

Migrations happen because a given population density reaches a level that is too high forcing individuals to find a new place to live. So in this case, it means the population of springtails outside your home is so abundant they’re being forced to migrate and in this process, they’re getting into your home.

Now most homes are far too dry for springtails to live and thrive so in general (as our article also explains), they’ll all die once they get out in the open. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t treat inside; it just means the real problem is where they’re coming from so don’t waste all your effort inside when the outside is the key to getting the issue resolved.

As for watering the yard? That’s a bad idea. In fact, moisture is what they need so the less they have the better.

Lastly, the more of an area around your home you treat the better because what you’re trying to create is a “springtail free” zone or perimeter. And we know from experience that if this area is only 5-10 feet, springtails from outside that area can still penetrate through it, reach your home and get inside. But if you keep a treated zone of 25-50 feet, the odds of this happening are far less. So I suggest that 25 feet would be minimal; 50 feet of buffer is excellent and what I keep around my home.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

These are tough to find products and since we ship daily, you can get orders placed with us within a few days.

As for where to spray, definitely spraying the concrete is needed like walkways and especially the foundation of the home.

And inside, use the Dforce Aerosol for cracks and crevices; Phantom for spot treating.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

I’d say you’re well on your way to understanding this pest and resolving your problem. Here’s some more insight to help.

First, houses that have activity are simply “in the line of fire”. This line is we call the “migratory” line. So it would appear that your home is situated in such a way that when the populations choose to migrate, they’re coming up mostly where you’re home is positioned. In fact this is a common phenomena and what we’ve seen is that there tends to be a type of “funneling” in the common landscape that causes this pattern of migration. Sometimes the funneling is water related, sometimes food related and sometimes it’s nothing more than gravity affecting how they travel. But no doubt these guys will almost always have a focal point in any given area or they’ll be seen appearing all over. Sadly for you, it’s the former.

Second, you are right in thinking that if you expand your “springtail free zone” to encompass more of the yard, you should be able to reduce the migratory numbers which in turn could preclude them from your home. This will take time but if you stay the course and do a bit extra like treating the sinks, I’m sure you’ll achieve success!

Technically the Cyonara is for the outside only but that’s because of the container it’s packed in. The active ingredient is actually used inside quite a bit so as long as you’re not applying it with the garden hose (making a mess), you’ll be fine. And in the big picture, the Bifen, Dforce, Phantom or even some Cyonara in a Pump Sprayer can all do the job. But is this even needed? Let me explain.

You see, as our article explains, in most cases the springtails are coming in from the outside and unless you kill them there, you’ll keep seeing them inside no matter what you apply inside. And there is a simple way to tell where they’re coming from.

If you apply Deltamethrin Dust to the wall voids and then some Dforce, Phantom or liquid spray to the baseboards and the springtails are nesting in the wall or baseboard, you’re treatment will stop them cold. In other words, within one day they’ll be gone and you’ll know you will have gotten them where they nesting. Springtails are easy to kill and any of these applications will take care of inside nests quickly.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

But if in fact the ones you’re seeing inside are coming from an outside migration, the dust and liquid treatments applied inside won’t phase them. And that’s because they’re migrating so quickly, the treatment won’t have time to kill them before they emerge out into the open areas where you’re seeing them.

In summary, there is generally no reason to do much treating inside because if they’re nesting in that location, one thorough treatment will remedy the problem. But if they’re coming from the outside, the inside applications won’t help so there is little reason to keep spraying there but instead, move outside and start getting them where it truly matters with the Bifen Granules and Cyonara RTS.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Definitely spray the Cyonara RTS over the Bifen Granules and don’t use just water. As for using the Cyonara concentrate in a pump sprayer? No way. That simply won’t cut it because you must use a lot of water and not what little you can pump out with a manually operated sprayer. I’m talking 10-20 gallons at least depending on the size of the yard.

Also, it’s very important that you treat 25-50 feet out from the home and not just close to it. With that being established, most everyone will need to use the Cyonara RTS because it will pump huge amounts of water which is very important. So with that being understood, you should now understand the Cyonara RTS or Bifen XTS using the Hose End Sprayer is what’s needed:

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

I’ve seen where they’ll nest all around a pipe so you must be sure before you start pursuing a damaged drain line theory because they’re rarely a major contributing factor. This means that treating the drain is still suggested but what you can also do is add some water and plug the drain for long periods of time (like over night) and see what happens.

Now if springtails start appearing in the sink above the water line or even on the counter just above the sink, it would mean they’re not coming from the pipe but instead from the counter, where the sink sets into the counter, etc. I have seen this happen many times and though at first it appears they’re coming up from the drain, they’re actually coming from inside the living area to the drain so make sure you’re 100% sure of the source.

Less moisture around the home is better so converting to rock instead of mulch should help. But as our article explains, you need a buffer of 25-50 feet to stop the migration from reaching the home. That would be more than the normal amount of rocks people commonly put around the home. And even then, it’s not likely this will stop them without having to treat. So you could forego all the landscape work and treat with the Bifen G and Cyonara to get rid of them regardless of what you decide to keep around the home.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

As for the inside; this activity will probably slow or stop once you get the outside treated. And since springtails commonly migrate such long distances, once they get inside it’s normal to find them anywhere including the ceiling.

Indirectly, it can translate to what you’re suggesting. Here’s why.

There are some molds and fungi that “change” wood and in the process, enable it to become digestible by some insects. Now I don’t know that this can happen to any significant degree but my guess it has at some time in some home. So yes, it’s quite possible that springtails could be feeding upon your house.

Much like a termite, if their numbers were to reach certain levels and the environment was right regarding moisture, mold and fungi production, I would say that they could in fact be consuming structural members of any building that were being deteriorated enough by the environment.

For sure what you’re seeing is a good indication of what we consider to be an “initial” infestation. Now is a good time to start the process and what you just ordered is exactly what you should be getting to start the battle. With any luck, the treatments you’ll start doing shortly will get rid of them and keep them away for good.

As our article explains, the granules are a “slow release” type product that’s designed to provide long term control. Unfortunately they won’t do much for the immediate problem. What you’ll need for the thousands you’re seeing right now is to treat with the Cyonara RTS.

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Now once you get some, treat as often as is needed. In some cases this means daily treatments for a few days just to knock down the initial activity/invasion. Now once they subside and you’re not seeing the numbers you describe in your message, you can start to space out the applications. But because of the magnitude they can bring at one time, granules alone will not cut it as you’re now learning.

Additionally, now would be a great time to get the foundation and siding of the home sprayed. This way you should be able to ward off any would be invaders and hopefully avoid the problems associated with having them inside which many people have to contend once the soil around their home gets as loaded as yours already sounds like it is.

Definitely the Phantom because it goes on “dry” and is odorless. The key with windows is to make sure you get under the window seating. In other words, where the bottom of the window sits when closed is where the moisture accumulates and that’s where they’ll nest. If possible, raise the window and treat under it. Also all along the runners of each side.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

As for the outside; the Bifen Granules and Cyonara RTS applied throughout the year will take care of them as long as you use enough and keep treating.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Go with the Deltamethrin Dust listed above. It will last a year or so when applied to this area and will work on all pests.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

Based on your message, I would say you’ve done a great job of analyzing your problem along with the most likely ways you’ll need to treat now before it gets worse. Treating the outside with granules and spray will get the local population regulated and knocked down which is no doubt directly linked to what you’re seeing inside. In the long run, this more than anything will keep them out of the home.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

As for the inside; I’d say the Survivors and Gentrol is the way to start in your sinks. This way if they are starting to get established in your pipes, you’ll be nipping them in the bud. Now do I think you have a cracked pipe? No. I think it’s more likely there are some that have worked their way up the drain lines and 1-2 treatments in the sinks will take care of what you’re seeing.

Survivors: http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/liquid/survivors

Gentrol Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/gentrol-aerosol-16-oz

Lastly, you should definitely dust under any tub or shower traps too if you have these locations since this would be a prime nest site if available.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

In summary, I think it sounds like a good outside and inside treatment regime for your home will get this springtail problem solved with little frustration or aggravation. The key here is treating now, before it gets worse, so they don’t have a chance to get established with massive numbers.

If you’re seeing this much activity and the home is new, it’s safe to say the surrounding yard must have had a healthy population before the home was built. That means you should take a proactive stance as soon as possible and starting with the Bifen Granules outside with Cyonara RTS over the top would be smart.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

For the door sills, Phantom aerosol would be a good choice. It’s odorless, goes on dry and treatments will last several weeks per treatment.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Now again, I can’t stress enough how important it will be for you to get control of this problem because as soon as possible because if you don’t take care of it, I’m certain you’ll have springtails for many years. Just read the threads above and you’ll learn that some of the worse cases are people who move into a new home and because everything is so new, they fail to act swiftly. This will just enable the local population and in the end, make getting control that much tougher.

Phantom is what I would consider “slow” in that it will take a day or two for you to see results. For springtails, if you treat after dinner sometime in the evening, the following morning you’ll find little to no activity. Now the reason we like suggesting the Phantom for use inside is because it is odorless and it goes on “dry”. For use inside the home – especially for use on window sills and other highly visible locations – this trait of going on dry is a big “plus”. Add to this the fact it’s virtually odorless and you can see Phantom is a good choice for inside the home.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Now if you insist on using something that will provide an instant kill, go with the Dforce. It’s fast acting so you’ll see the springtails die following the application. Just be careful as it will have an odor and it will leave a “wet” feel to where it’s applied so don’t over use it.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

No doubt you have a problem that’s stemming from the soil and the key for you solving this problem will be to get the soil treated enough. As our article explains, springtails live and breed in the soil and when their populations get dense enough, they’ll migrate out into the open. This will usually happen in the spring, summer and fall and though there is no guarantee it will happen at any precise time, we find it does tend to happen more when the local moisture is high (such as a lot of rain fall and/or high humidity).

Now it’s important to understand that the Bifen and Cyonara applied to the soil will definitely reduce some of this population. And if you do it enough, you can reduce them deep down in the ground so when they migrate up, none will be seen in the open. But to accomplish this goal, you must treat on a regular basis and you must treat now. So even though fall will soon be turning to winter, now is a great time to get on top of the problem and reduce their numbers. This in turn will make managing them next spring so much easier.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Lastly, we know springtails like to migrate together, around other springtails. So when they forage up around the siding of the home, they’ll naturally accumulate around windows because they see themselves in the reflection. So when you combine the window sills with the reflective surfaces of the window glass, it’s no doubt a great spot for them to appear the most concentrated and one of the reasons why treating this area with Phantom is the way to go.

Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

I’m not aware of any “average” depth. I’ve seen them under basements over 10 feet below the soil grade around a home. This can happen when water is somehow tricking down under or alongside a home. I’ve also seen them under roofing shingles on the top of homes some 50 feet up so the range is really only limited by the availability of quality nest sites.

That being said, dirt under a plastic weed barrier or tarp tends to be acidic, dry and void of adequate food that springtails need. Remember, they don’t forage for food; they live where they have direct access to what they need. And they need moisture as well as organic material on which to feed. So that means it’s more likely they’re thriving under mulch, flower beds, any a nearby compost pile.

More importantly, springtails don’t want to leave where they’re living. If given the chance, they’d gladly live out their lives where they were born. But when populations explode, their DNA tells them to migrate and this is something many people fail to understand. Unlike ants or roaches that forage inside looking for food, springtails only come out into the open because where they’re nesting is too “full” of them. This in turn forces a massive migration and that’s when you start seeing them out in the open. This is also why treating their nest sites is the only proven way to effectively reduce and/or eliminate the amount you see out in the open and why it’s important to treat as much of your yard as you can with the Bifen Granules and Cyonara RTS.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Now obviously if your neighbor is willing to let you pull back their tarp and treat underneath it I would say go for it. But to think that this area is the only important area to treat around your home would be a mistake. I’ve never seen where there is just “one” spot in any yard that’s generating all the springtails coming out in the open. In fact it’s usually 5-10 spots which is why treating with a “shotgun” approach is no doubt the best approach for long term control.

No doubt that springtails emerging will many times die quickly and leave what many describe as “crumbs”. This is because they’re actually quite weak and susceptible to the local humidity. So if the air in your apartment is dry, they’ll “dry” up and become crumb like after they’re exposed to the local air.

As for the “tacky dust”? Can’t say they normally leave this in their path though I have seen cases where they come out in such numbers and in some cases, when they emerge, they can be quite moist. This moisture will many times be carried from where they were nesting and if there was something in that wall space they were contacting just prior to emerging, it is possible they brought some of that moisture with them to your living space. Regardless, it won’t be harmful and should be easy to clean.

At this time I suggest you do a thorough vacuuming of the area to remove as many as possible. I also suggest you treat with some Deltamethrin Dust and Dforce Aerosol. As explained above, the Deltamethrin Dust should be applied into your wall voids and the Dforce to all cracks and crevices. If you pay attention to when they emerge, you should be able to locate just which cracks and wall voids are most active and once located, get them treated. This should help reduce if not eliminate their numbers substantially.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Just so you understand what we do; basically we’re a chemical warehouse that sells professional pest control products. These are the same products professionals use so whether you apply them or you hire a service company to do the application, these are the best products on the market and no doubt they’ll get positive results.

Now even though they’re the best products on the market, you still need to use them right and that’s why we posted the article above. If you read through it, you’ll learn all you need to know about springtails, what it takes to control local infestations and how to treat. So while reading, pay attention to the treatment part because this is what you’ll be doing if you decide to do the work.

So for now, I suggest you read through the article. And after reading it, if you have further questions, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290. At that point we should be able to further advise and help you make a decision one way or the other.

If your review our article above, you’ll learn that this pest will typically come up from the ground in mass numbers and in most cases, if the nest site is not treated heavily for long periods of time, the activity inside the home will usually just keep happening until the outside nests are under control. That being said, there are cases where springtails can find adequate conditions inside structures where they can create new nest sites and it just so happens that under tubs and showers is a great place for this to happen.

So since you’re no doubt limited in where you can treat and it would appear that you’re well above the ground, treating every crack you find in the active area would be the recommended treatment strategy for now. And a good product to use for this type of treatment would be either Dforce or Phantom aerosol.

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Both products come with thin “straws” you would use to direct the treatment into any crack you might find and because both are self propelled, the treatment will move into any spaces that might be naked to the eye. This means you could very well hit their main nest site without knowing exactly where it might be located.

Mind you liquid sprays won’t work for this since they won’t move around a void space like an aerosol will do naturally. Additionally, it’s hard to direct a liquid into small cracks which is actually quite easy to do with these two aerosol formulations. And since this is no doubt where you need to treat, I’d start using this approach.

Lastly, neither product will pose any hazard to you or your children if you follow the safety guidelines we have explained in our safety videos. These can be seen on every product page as well as here:

Product Safety: http://www.bugspray.com/about-us/who_is_bugspray.html#safe_for_the_home

Nothing can last in a shower stall so this is not a consideration. But more important, residual is not what’s important for this type of treatment. What is important is using something that’s both fast acting and able to penetrate. With that being said, the Dforce would be ideal for this.

Dforce uses a solvent system which tends to be invasive meaning it penetrates cracks very well. This characteristic makes it ideal for such use. Just 1-2 squirts per crack and the treatment will surely get deep enough to immediately kill off any that might be hiding in the space behind it.

Now true the treatment won’t last like it might in a space away from water. But since it won’t take much to treat and the treatment will kill any nesting in this location, if you do a spot treatment every 2-4 weeks I’m sure you’ll keep them at bay.

Glad I could help. In fact treating the cracks and then sealing the grout would be wise. This will serve you by first protecting the treatment and allowing it to last longer. Additionally, by sealing the grout and keeping water out, you’ll no doubt make the conditions in the area a lot less likely to develop insect problems. Good luck!

What you’re experiencing is normal and to be expected. And it sounds like you missed the section of our article above which deals specifically with springtails in the winter:

http://www.bugspray.com/article/springtail.html#springtails-in-the-winter

Basically what you have happening is that alongside your home, there are nests of springtails thriving in the soil that’s no doubt kept warm by your homes foundation. You see, cement is a great conductor of heat. And as you warm your home throughout the winter, the foundation is usually kept quite warm too which will attract all kinds of insects including springtails.

Additionally, any kind of mulch (like pine straw) can serve as a heat generator because most any mulch will decompose – even during the winter. Here at my house (just outside of Atlanta, GA), I’ve measured temperatures 30-40 degrees above the freezing air temps during the winter under the thick pine straw I keep around my home. My point is even if the top of your mulch is covered in frost or snow, a thick enough cover of wood chips or pine straw can generate a lot of heat.

Now if you add some food and moisture to this heat, your springtails will be able increase their numbers all winter long and based on your message, I’d say it sounds like this is happening right now at your house.

So even though the ground has snow on it, the soil below could be well above freezing (especially alongside the home) and from there, springtails could migrate up and into your wall voids, door frames, etc.

And though you will no doubt need to get going with some intense soil treatments in the yard to control this infestation, you won’t be able to start this process just yet. Soil treating with Bifen granules and Cyonara RTS should only be done in the spring, summer and fall.

But what you can and should be doing is treating with Phantom aerosol. This odorless material should be applied to all the cracks, crevices, door frames, door tracks, etc. where the springtails have been seen. By killing off the springtails now present in these locations, you’ll be able to stave off any establishing nests. This in turn will enable you to control the whole population that much faster come spring and summer.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

For granules, there are two alternatives that can be used in place of the Bifen Granules. Neither will last as long as the Bifen but they’ll work fine for springtails. You’ll just need to apply them more frequently since they’ll only last around half as long residual wise.

Essentria Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/granule/eco-exempt-org-g-22-lb

Lawn Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/complete-insect-killer-granules

Next, use the Cyonara RTS spray listed above to spray over the top of the granules. This product works great for springtails and can be shipped to your state with no problem.

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

Now if you prefer to use a liquid concentrate, the Defense applied using a Hose End Sprayer can be used. It will take around 1/2 oz per 1000 sq/ft of ground to treat so with our 20 gallon hose end sprayer, add 5 oz of concentrate, fill with water, and spray the entire amount over a 10,000 sq/ft area. Remember, just mixing up a gallon or two at a time won’t cut it. As explained above, you’ll need a lot of water when spraying for springtails so the Cyonara is really the best way to go.

Defense: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/suspend-sc

Hose End: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-20g-390

For inside, the Deltamethrin Dust and the Dforce can both be shipped to your state with no problem.

Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Lastly, you won’t find any of these products being sold locally so ordering on line will be the only way to obtain them.

The products you should use are all listed above in our article. And as explained in the article, springtails live in the soil around and under the home. This means you need to focus on those areas and really, not at all where you actually see them.

So for the outside, apply the Bifen Granules first and then spray over the top with the Cyonara RTS.

Bifen Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/bifenthrin-g-25-lb

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

For inside areas, you can start by treating cracks and crevices with Phantom aerosol. But I must point out that based on our experience with this pest, spraying inside will usually not offer any long term results.

True, it will get rid of the ones currently trying to nest in the area so in some cases, it’s no helpful. It’s just important to understand that these areas are not where the problem originated and if you ignore the source of the infestation, you’ll never get rid of them for good.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Now as our article above explains, with slab homes the best way to knock them out is by first gaining access to the drain line “trap” that lies under shower pans and/or bath tubs. Once this area is exposed and reachable, spraying it down with Bifen liquid and then placing a thin coat of plaster or cement over the exposed dirt will generally stop them from entering these areas for good.

Bifen IT: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/bifen

Lastly, in the end we know the best way to control this pest is by treating the traps and outside which means there should be no treatments done in the actual living area of the home. And if there are no treatments being done inside, there would be no risk or exposure to any individual that are “allergy prone”. The only exception would be if you chose to apply some Phantom but since it’s odorless and with so little needed in the areas you listed, the amount of material that would be applied if the treatment is done right would be miniscule.

More information about how safe these products are to use in and around the home can be found here:

Product Safety: http://www.bugspray.com/about-us/who_is_bugspray.html#safe_for_the_home

No way to tell but based on what you report, I’m pretty sure the plant is not the cause. The numbers just aren’t adding up.

So if you were seeing a few (10-20), I’d say the chance of the problem coming from the plant would be high. I would also say there would be little chance of them successfully relocating to your home and concrete areas around the home. But if hundreds have been seen? Then I’d say it’s more likely they’re coming from somewhere in or around your home and not from the plant. But lets say that many did come from the plant; the chances of them succeeding in creating a new nest around your home would be good.

So if you suspect 100 or more may have relocated to either your window or front door area, you need to get these areas treated with some Phantom or Dforce immediately.

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

And the same for the outside. So anywhere outside where the plant may have been placed or where you’ve seen any decent amount of springtails, treat. A good spraying with some Cyonara RTS will help insure new nests won’t develop and if they’re already in place, the treatment will help alleviate the problem before it gets worse.

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

A pump sprayer is okay for most all pest control applications. Especially when spraying over foundations, house siding, carpeting and baseboards. But for certain pests – especially pests that thrive in the ground – the key to cutting their numbers down is to get the treatment deep in the soil. And this can only be accomplished with a lot of water.

Not surprisingly, this is extra true with springtails. Remember, with most springtail problems, they’ll be thriving deep down in the ground. Just read the posts above; the one common thread is that the problem comes from deep in the ground surrounding the home.

So for these problems, even the most concentrated surface treatment won’t stop their massive migrations if allowed to live down in the soil. But by using a lot of water to help get deep soil penetration, one can reduce their numbers deep in the ground and over time, establish a “buffer zone” of springtail free dirt. And if you keep this zone free of springtails by treating on a regular basis even after they’re gone, you will greatly reduce the chance of them coming back strong.

So in the end, the extra water is no doubt diluting the concentrate. But this is not nearly as important as it is to get the treatment down into the ground where it will matter the most. And that means using a lot of water which the Cyonara RTS will provide.

Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts

So to answer your question; the Cyonara being pumped out using a hose end sprayer is the way to go over a standard pump sprayer. But if you have a large area to treat or would like to spray at a higher rate compared to the pre-packaged hose end Cyonara container, you can do so using the concentrated Cyonara and a Hose End Sprayer. This would allow you to use it at whatever rate you’d like.

Cyonara: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara

Hose End Sprayer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-20g-390