Yellow Jackets are wasps. They are usually less than one inch in length. Here is a short video showing one at rest and taking to flight.

In case this is not what you’re looking for, we also have in depth articles on:         CICADA KILLERS          DIGGER WASPS          EUROPEAN HORNETS          HORNTAIL WASPS          MUD DAUBERS        WASPS

 

YELLOW JACKET NESTS

If left to mature naturally, Yellow Jacket nests will reach maturity in August or September. Most nests are in the ground under stumps or shrubs. But they also nest in voids. These voids may be in a tree or house. Such locations can be difficult to treat.

Yellow Jackets are territorial and will defend their nest. Be careful when moving around a suspected nest site. Their sting is painful and most encounters involve many stings.

 

YELLOW JACKET PROBLEMS

Yellow Jackets are a nuisance at locations like garbage dumpsters, decks, pool areas, picnic areas and generally any place people like to be. They are attracted to the same food we like. Soda, chicken, steak or candy will all attract Yellow Jackets. In fact, this problem is so common in the United States that just about everybody knows how intimidating and annoying a yellow jacket flying around their drink or food can be.

 

YELLOW JACKET ZAPPERS

If you have this problem around your home, use a HAND HELD ZAPPER to help keep them at bay. If they’re getting inside the home, the BUG VACUUM/ZAPPER maybe the better of the two to have. Both of these devices will help control the foraging scout yellow jackets coming around the home, but don’t expect the problem to go away. Yellow jacket nests are quite large so expect them to keep coming. And once food is found, Yellow Jackets will fly on, in or around their target trying to get a taste.

Hand Held Zapper: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/hand-held-zapper

Bug Vacuum Zapper: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/bug-vacuumzapper

 

YELLOW JACKET BIOLOGY

This food is then brought back to their nest to feed larvae. Yellow Jackets work for nothing other than feeding their young. Though this sounds noble, the adults have self motivated intentions. They get a sugary food from young larva in exchange for the protein they provide.

Yellow jackets are no doubt one of the more aggressive wasp species around. If threatened, they will sting. In fact, yellow jackets will sting more readily then most any other wasp. And since they can sting so over and over without loosing their stinger, it’s best not to irritate them. Unfortunately a simple reaction to one buzzing around your head, arm or leg can be enough to irritate it so be careful if you have any that seem attracted to you.

Since yellow jackets use both vision and odor to find food, people will many times become the target of their focus. This is due to many reasons. People regularly sweat which yellow jackets love. They will readily seek the salty moisture where they can find it and during warm hot dry spells, people become a prime target.

 

YELLOW JACKET ATTRACTORS

Furthermore, the colognes, anti-perspirants and other scents we wear can all contribute to yellow jackets finding us attractive. Certain colors will catch their eye as well and though there is no real pattern for this behavior, it is clear that bright colors during certain times of the year will attract them.

 

YELLOW JACKET SKIN REPELLENT

If you are someone that tends to naturally attract yellow jackets, there are two products you can use to help minimize this behavior. If it’s your sweat and general body odor they find attractive, use some DEET LOTION or DEET AEROSOL on exposed skin areas like arms, legs, neck and facial regions. Deet will help keep yellow jackets off treated skin.. Whether the Deet is masking your natural odor or if yellow jackets just don’t like it, we don’t know for sure. But it these formulations will help keep them away.

Deet 20% Lotion: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/liquid/deet-20-lotion-6-oz

Deet Aerosol:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/aerosol/bug-off-aerosol-repellent-8-oz

 

YELLOW JACKET CLOTHING REPELLENT

Now if it’s your wardrobe they are more attracted to, apply some PERMETHRIN to it before going outside. This product has no odor and we sell a lot of it for mosquito, tick and chigger relief. It will also work to keep yellow jackets off you since the Permethrin is highly repellent to them.

Permethrin Aerosol:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/aerosol/permethrin-aerosol-6-oz

 

YELLOW JACKET TREATMENTS

In the end, you’ll probably need to do some yellow jacket control if you want them gone for good. If you know where the nest is, you may treat it directly. Nests in the ground may be treated by drenching. This method should be done in the evening when the colony is quiet and resting. You are less likely to be stung at this time. There are two ways to drench. If the hole is big enough, you may be able to mix your chemical in a bucket and pour the finished material into the entrance hole.

If the hole is small, get one of our SPRAYERS, remove the nozzle and then stick the extension without the nozzle into all entrance and exit holes. Make sure you know where the holes are. There are usually one or two and they are usually close to each other. If the nest is well established, the holes may be several feet apart. If you know there are more than one hole be sure to treat each one with equal amounts of product.

Pump Sprayer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/good/pump-sprayers

 

YELLOW JACKET NEST DRENCHING

The average nest will require 1-2 gallons of finished material. Large nests will take more. If the nest is under a stoop or deck, you will have to use one of our sprayers to insure proper coverage. Make sure you know where the nest entry is so you are able to direct the spray where it counts! If the nest is around a shrub or under mulch, you may need to prepare the ground by moving aside ground cover. If you fear doing this prep work during the day, work at night. This will minimize risk of being stung as the nest will be settled and quiet.

The best material to use for this application is CYPERMETHRIN. It is very active on yellow jackets and mixes easy with water. Add some SPREADER STICKER to the mix which enables the chemical to adhere to target wasps faster and more thoroughly. This makes it work quicker. In the days following the treatment, you should expect them to be active. If you treated right, this activity will decrease every day. The nest should be dead and activity should cease after five days. If you continue to see workers moving in and out of the nest more than a week following the treatment, you need to follow-up. This may happen as nests can be large and your chemical may flow to some sections of the nest and miss others. This is not unusual. The second treatment should penetrate missed sections of the nest and enable you to gain control of the situation.

Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin

Spreader Sticker: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/additive/spreader-sticker

 

YELLOW JACKETS ON THE SIDE OF YOUR HOUSE

There may be times when the nest is in a wall void, attic or other section of the home. Direct treatment like drenching is quick and very effective but will not work when the nest is hard to reach. Fortunately, you have options. If you know where the nest is because you are able to hear the wasps in the wall, treatment will be easy. DO NOT TREAT THEM FROM THE OUTSIDE! This will only chase them deeper into the void where they are hiding.

Since yellow jackets are able to chew through wood and other materials, if you trap them inside the home they will quickly work their way out and into your living area. The yellow jackets will move throughout the home once they have chewed their way into the living area. Since they are trying to get back outside they will move throughout the home looking for anyway out. Treatments done from the outside can cause this to happen so don’t be shocked if it starts following an outside treatment. The wasps which are flying around the home are best vacuumed up and may be active for several weeks following the treatment so let me state again, DO NOT TREAT ANY WASP OR BEE NEST FROM THE OUTSIDE!!!

The only exception would be if the void they are in is a soffit or some other area which is not really directly linked to any main living area of the house. If it’s the attic or a secluded bedroom which is close to the nest you could probably deal with them should they emerge inside by simply avoiding that area altogether until the nest dies off. However, if the nest is adjacent to a kitchen or living room, it is probably best to treat it from the inside since staying out of any main part of the home is probably not an option should they get inside.

 

YELLOW JACKET SAFETY SUITS

If you feel there is no way to gain direct access to the nest from the inside, you can do a few things to make the outside treatment effective. First, equip yourself with a BEE VEIL. This can be used with a BEE HAT for a tailor fit but can be used with any hat which has a strong brim. Be sure to use several layers of shirts and pants – preferable three – to insure stings won’t be able to penetrate. Get some BEE GLOVES on as well since your hands will be close to the nest while treating. If you don’t feel like wearing all those clothes, get one of our BEE SUITS. This will protect you from any sting altogether which will allow you to treat without hazards from the wasp.

Bee Veil:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/safety/bee-veil-zippered-fits-suits

Bee Hat:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/safety/bee-hat-poly

Bee Gloves:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/safety/bee-gloves-leather-l

Bee Suit:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/safety/bee-suit-size-46

 

YELLOW JACKET DUST

Now that you are properly equipped you can directly attack the nest by first drilling some small holes and then pumping some DRIONE DUST into the nest which will provide quick and easy control. Drione is very active on yellow jackets. It acts as a dessicant which dehydrates them quickly. Most importantly, it lasts for a long time providing residual which is needed for the long term control of this pest. The dust will be around for a few months which means that as eggs hatch, they will die preventing the nest from coming back. Use a HAND DUSTER to apply the Drione. It will puff the dust out several feet ensuring good coverage. Drione is light like smoke and will filter throughout the void. Don’t be surprised if you see some emerging several feet down away from where you are doing the application. This is very much desirable and insures you are getting proper coverage.

Drione:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust

Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader

 

Many times there are cracks and crevices through which you can apply the dust but if there is only one hole, it would really help if you drill some small holes large enough to get the tip of the Hand Duster in. Drione naturally seeks out seams, cracks and crevices which makes it very effective for this type of job. If you think the nest is rather large and you don’t want to spend your time refilling this little hand duster several times, you can do your application with our DUST-R. This device holds almost a whole pound of dust and will enable you to treat most any nest with one tankful. Though generally used by professionals, this device will save a lot of time and effort for anyone doing a lot of treating. It’s pumping action lets you get massive amounts of dust out rapidly.

Dust-R:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/bg-1152-a-qt-duster

 

YELLOW JACKET DUSTERS

If the nest is 6-12 feet up, you might consider the LONG REACH DUST-R which is essentially the same unit except it has a series of extensions which allow you to reach high places. It, too, will hold a lot of dust, but by being able to treat the target sight while on the ground, it gives you a big advantage.

Long Reach Dust-R:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/bg-long-reach-dust-r

 

For nests which are really high, you may need the DUSTICK. This tool is a basically a duster which is on top of several extensions which will enable the applicator to reach nests located over 25 feet high. It’s excellent for treating up under siding, facia boards and soffits. Again, the ability to keep both feet on the ground when attempting this work is much more comforting then dealing with a bunch of mean wasps while on top of a ladder.

Dustick:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/dustick

 

YELLOW JACKET WASP FREEZE AEROSOL

And regardless of where you are when making the treatment, another good tool to have by your side is a can or two of some WASP KILLER. This new generation Wasp and Bee Killer is both quick acting and far reaching. It’s always a good idea to have some in your pocket “just in case”. Don’t rely on it for treating yellowjacket nests; it won’t do the job. You need the penetration of the Drione Dust to get deep into all the voids and spaces nests will reach. However, being able to spray and kill a few rogue yellow jackets that were lucky enough to escape death from the dust is just what the Wasp Killer can do for you.

Bee Hornet Freeze: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/hornet-killer-15-oz

 

YELLOW JACKET WALL TREATMENTS

If the nest is treatable from the inside, you will be able to kill it both quickly and completely with a few precautions. First, you will need to use another product we sell which comes in an aerosol can. It is called DFORCE AEROSOL. It has a small tube which allows you to use very small treating holes which is important if you have to treat through finished walls which have wall paper or some other nice finish. These holes can be small enough so that they don’t let any of the wasps get inside either.

D-Force:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

 

To start, you first need to locate just where you think the nest is situated. This can be determined by listening. Where the sound is loudest is a good clue and probably the best place to start. Another clue is a sagging or rotting look to some part of the wall or ceiling. Since yellow jackets chew through ceiling and wall coverings, they will push the material out or make it look and feel soft to the touch. Most times they will chew right to the brink of the wall or ceiling falling apart. I have seen several nests where I couldn’t understand how the ceiling or wall wasn’t crumbling apart from the weight of itself. I have learned that the wasps will repair these weak spots up so it won’t fall down. I have also learned not to touch or mess with nests until I am ready to treat.

 

YELLOW JACKET CEILING NESTS

For these kind of treatments, I like to use the Dforce Aerosol. The wall or ceiling covering is so fragile that you simply slide the straw of the can into the bad section and then spray away. Since they can’t get out and you are able to treat where it counts, the nest will be dead within a few minutes. On several occasions I actually used some Duct Tape to help secure the ceiling before I did the treatment to insure it didn’t fall on top of me. If done right, you should expect the colony to be dead and all activity to stop within a day or two.

When treating nests from inside the home where there is a risk the cavity may fall apart, be sure to wear protective equipment. Always be prepared for the worst event. It is a good idea to wear some of the protective equipment listed above. I also like to keep a strong Shop Vac close by. It will come in handy if the nest falls inside. As they land, simply vacuum them up. It is easy to do and actually quite effective. Don’t waste your time trying to spray them; it is hard to spray accurately in the home and generally all you will do is make a mess. However, the Hand Held Zapper comes in quite handy for when you have activity like this and is a great tool to have around.

If you are unsure where the nest is but have a colony located in the home or somewhere close to the home, there is another method you may need to use for control. Baiting for yellow jackets is both effective and easy. When we talk about baiting, we are not talking trapping. Trapping yellow jackets is usually a waste of time. Traps typically catch foraging workers or scouts which will be readily replaced by the colony. There is usually a never ending supply of these scout yellow jackets and the colony will thrive as if they hadn’t lost any members. In the end, trapping usually doesn’t work but you may decide to try it first. Just make sure you understand the difference between “trapping” vs “baiting” (which will be discussed shortly).

 

YELLOW JACKET TRAPS

So if you decide to start by trapping, go with a standard YELLOWJACKET TRAP. The newer GLASS YELLOW JACKET TRAP looks even better and comes with a special pheromone lure just for yellow jackets. What’s nice about these traps is you can use them over and over again. Unlike the traditional “disposable” traps like the first one we showed, the Glass Trap has a removable cork on top that allows you to empty it’s contents every two weeks. New REPLACEMENT YELLOW JACKET LURES can be put in the trap and it will be as good as new. It also can be used for “baiting” should you discover that trapping isn’t working.

Yellow Jacket Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/yellowjacket-trap-jumbo

Yellow Jacket Glass Trap:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/wasp-glass-trap

Yellow Jacket Lure:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/wasp-yellow-jacket-trap-2pk-refill

 

As mentioned above,”baiting” is not “trapping”. It costs more to bait compared to trapping but in the end, the bait technique will work a lot better. The great thing about baiting yellow jackets is that it will enable you to kill off nests which are located on structures that you cannot access. Baiting will also enable you to effectively eliminate nests which may reside on another property. Since yellowjackets will forage great distances in search of food, they can be a continual nuisance until the nest is destroyed. The concept of using a bait is both practical and effective. By taking advantage of scout wasps and that which they do, you are able to get them to bring back a food which not only they will eat but they will feed it to the entire nest.

 

YELLOW JACKET BAITING TO KILL NESTS

To bait, you’ll need a unique form of pesticide that’s microencapsulated. Basically the active ingredient is hidden inside tiny capsules which make the product time release. At some point someone experimented with these formulations and discovered these compounds could be mixed with food attractants that target pests. Apparently they weren’t able to detect the microencapsulates added to the food and would eat as if the offering posed no threat. But once the product makes it’s way into the digestive system of the target pest, the capsules eventually hatch and expose them to the pesticide hidden within. This process will take days to happen and because it takes this long, the bait will have been shared by most of the colony which means the vast majority of them will die. This in turn will shut down the nest making it possible to treat nests which are remote and far off your property.

 

YELLOW JACKET LURE

Now it only takes small amount of active ingredient and the food attractant will flavor the capsules effectively. And the product to use for this process is known as ONSLAUGHT. You’ll also need a good food attractant and our SALMON PASTE will prove to be a base food bait the yellow jackets cannot ignore. Fish flavor seems to work great and they seem to really love Salmon. But in the rare instance they’re not interested in salmon, go to our LOGANBERRY PASTE. It’s sweet and high in complex carbohydrates for those “sugar sweet bees”.

Onslaught: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/onslaught

Salmon Paste: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/salmon-paste-16-oz

Loganberry Paste:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/lure/logan-wasp-bait-16-oz

 

Of course, having some of both is your best option. Yellowjackets will be targeting either a protein or sugar based food so having some of both pretty much insures one will be readily accepted.

 

HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY BAIT YELLOW JACKETS

Here are some tips to follow if you believe you will be using this method.

First, you need to identify just what they want to eat. Do this by setting out different foods in small portions where you have seen yellow jackets. Start with a few small placements of our LOGANBERRY and SALMON paste. If you have yellowjackets, they will go to one one of these two items.

Second, once you discover which flavor they want, add some of the ONSLAUGHT mentioned above and place the mixture in our TRAP BAIT GUARD. Keep the bait refreshed by renewing it once every 2 weeks during the active season and this will both kill existing nests and keep new ones from forming.

Onslaught: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/onslaught

Bait Guard:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/stations/granule-liquid-guard

 

Third, do not to add too much Onslaught. The yellow jackets will avoid any mix which is too strong. All you need is a little. And remember these Bait Guards can be hung on a tree branch or out a window so children or pets cannot reach the placement so make it inaccessible if possible. Remember, yellow jackets have a tremendous sense of smell and will find it quickly.

Some more notes on baiting:

1. This method of control is very effective in areas of the country where yellow jackets are a constant nuisance at picnics and barbecues. If you have a problem with these wasps appearing every time you grill hot dogs or hamburgers, than set out some bait for quick control. Since yellowjackets can travel great distances and will do so when searching for food, the nest could be in someone else’s yard. Nests located on other property may never be accessible by you or any service company so you might not ever be able to destroy it except by baiting. If a remote nest like this finds your home and/or property, the only control option you may be able to employ would be baiting.
2. Don’t waste too much time with yellowjacket traps if you have significant yellow jacket activity. Yellowjackets are prolific and will quickly replace the workers and scouts your traps keep. If you have used the traps and find that after only one week they aren’t working well enough, start with a baiting program. It will prove 100% more effective.
3. Remember that there can be many nests in any given area and that activity at your bait stations could go on for many weeks. This means that you have multiple yellowjacket nests finding your bait. Usually any nest that finds the offering will feed for 2-5 days and then stop. Once they stop another nest will undoubtedly find the station and start feeding so the transition is seamless.

Now if you see yellow jackets feeding over a period of several weeks it means you have been attracting several nests which are near by. This is not uncommon and happens in many places around the country. Be sure to have patience and keep your bait placements fresh. This will insure you are killing off all of the nests which are active on your property so that you can go about your business yellow jacket free. Keep in mind that we have many customers who will make bait placements all summer long. Though these placements may only be fed upon periodically; the fact that they keep the placement fresh and available they are able to prevent any new nests from forming – a critical benefit of season long baiting.

 

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Email questions here:   http://www.bugspray.com/about-us/contact-us

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