Boxelder bugs are generally black and red and have been identified in most states of the Union. Although other insects closely related to Boxelders look like them including the milkweed bug, none are likely to congregate in huge numbers like boxelder bugs. Members of this insect family feed on woody plants and herbs. The boxelder bug got it’s name because it was found to infest boxelder trees. These trees were planted in the west as settlers wanted quick growing shade trees. The availability of the vast numbers of boxelder trees allowed the boxelder bug to flourish. It now infests many other species of trees including maples, apple and almond. It seems to like several types of dead insects and fruit as well.
BOXELDER BUG PROBLEMS
Boxelder bugs become a problem when they move into your yard or home. Once they begin to infest a tree, their population will grow from year to year. You will notice them congregating in massive numbers on the tree bark, limbs and the immediate ground around the tree. This congregation will occur in the spring and then again in the fall. In the spring, the boxelder emerges from its winter hibernation looking for a tree or plant that will supply food for the season.
BOXELDER BUG BIOLOGY
Young hatch in early summer and grow like roaches; they develop by instars. This means they go through several stages which resemble adults but will be smaller in size. As they molt and begin a new instar, they will become more and more like their reproducing parents. In the fall, they will seek the south or warm side of the tree or plant they have been feeding on throughout the summer. As it cools more, boxelder bugs will take up residence in nearby homes and structures.
Since they over- winter and do not die from year to year, a population can reach huge numbers. This “colony” will readily infest the same area from year to year once a successful winter shelter has been found. Some will migrate onto your home and ultimately lead to them getting inside. Besides the damage to leaves, fruit and trees around the home, if they are allowed to infest your house they will end up invading relentlessly. Expect to have them climbing walls, clinging to curtains and buzzing around lights and ceilings throughout the winter. Since your home is heated, they don’t need to “sleep” through the cold. Instead, they will forage around inside causing discomfort and being a nuisance until the spring. Here is a short video of one inside a home. This boxelder was filmed in the middle of winter but because it’s warm inside, they’ll stay active.
This video shows many phases of Boxelder Bugs so you can see adults compared to nymphs. All are common to find when you have an infestation.
You can attempt to seal them out but this will require the right products and some time. sealing is effective, however, and help to keep out all other unwanted pests. For this reason the time and cost to do some “house sealing” is worth it. Most homes that get invaded have lots and lots of small cracks, crevices and gaps through which boxelders enter. These entry points should be reduced and/or eliminated with the use of some FOAM SEALENT.
Pur Black: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/aerosol/pur-black
These cans are self charged and good for small jobs. If you have a lot of work to do, it would be wise to invest in one of the professional FOAM GUNS and maybe even the 24″ FOAM GUN. These tools will enable you to apply the sealent quickly and precisely without much waste or missed applications. In other words, they will more then pay for themselves.
Pur Gun: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/tools/pur-shooter-basic-gun
Pur Gun 24″ : http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/tools/pur-pageris-24-pro-gun
You’ll need the FOAM CANNISTERS for these guns, which easily fit on either applicator, and cover a much larger area then the smaller cans. If your home is prone to animal invasions, consider the FOAM WITH REPELLENT. This cannister comes with expanding foam but includes a strong repellent which insects and animals do not like. It may be just what you need to make sure ladybugs and other undesirable home invaders aren’t able to find their way inside quite as easily as they have in the past. Be sure to keep your guns clean by using some FOAM GUN CLEANER. This will help keep the gun functioning and ready to go to work when next needed.
Foam Repellent: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/aerosol/pur-ipf-foam
Pur Gun Cleaner: http://www.bugspraycart.com/sanitizer/aerosol/pur-cleaner
BOXELDER BUGS MAKE A MESS
Although boxelder bugs don’t bite, they will make a mess. Their droppings will accumulate where they are roosting and their eggs will appear as a series of small sacks laid 6-12 in a row. Since warm homes interfere with their natural cycles and biology, you may find reproduction and egg laying throughout the winter months. To remove the ones which are emerging inside the home, use a vacuum. This may seem like a never ending job, but it allows for a clean and quick removal of the pest. However, if you don’t address where they are entering, expect the supply of boxelder bugs to be ever increasing. To stop the invasion, there are several things you should do both inside and outside.
BOXELDER BUG OUTSIDE SPRAY
First, address the outside. Since most infestations start slowly, you can head it off before they establish themselves inside. If you have seen them congregating on a tree or the side of your house, you need to spray them immediately. Use CYPERMETHRIN and SPREADER STICKER for a quick kill. Mix these in a SPRAYER and treat any tree, plant or structure you see them accumulating on. This treatment will reduce the active ones wanting to nest in and around your home. By reducing these numbers, you are reducing the amount that could find their way inside. If you are treating an infestation which is outside only, the Cypermethrin will kill off those which are emerging. However, for long term control, the treatment must reach down to where the boxelders are nesting.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Spreader Sticker: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/additive/spreader-sticker
Solo 454: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/solo-1-gallon-sprayer
BOXELDER BUG LAWN TREATMENTS
So if you’re seeing activity on a tree, you should also treat the ground around the tree with the intent being of getting the treatment to reach the roots of the host plant. For such situations, the use of DELTAGUARD GRANULES will be needed. Apply the Granules with a GRANULE SPREADER to insure you get a good even distribution.
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Spreaders: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/spreaders/scatterbox-spreader
In most cases, it is better to treat and kill off the established population instead of removing the infested plant. Simply removing the infested plant will rarely remove all the Boxelders and in most cases they will just move over to the next available host. Prevent this from happening if you have a lot of plants infested by first applying some of the Granules and then spraying over the top with the Cypermethrin.
To help identify just how much of an area you should treat, a pair of STRESS GLASSES can really help. These unique filtering glasses will help to reveal just which shrubs and trees are under duress and need attention. Be sure to treat around them with both the Granules and liquid Cypermethrin to insure you get good penetration.
Stress Glasses: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/detectors/plant-stress-glasses
Now if the activity is distributed over a large area, like 5,000 sq/ft or more, go with CYONARA RTS for the liquid to apply instead of Cypermethrin. Cyonara is closely related to Cypermethrin but it’s designed for covering large areas more effectively. And since it comes with it’s own hose end sprayer, it’s much easier to apply over a large area.
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts
BOXELDER BUG DUST FOR HIDDEN SPACES
If the boxelders have already moved inside and have started nesting in your home, you will have to treat the structure as well. The first step for treating the home is to spray the outside walls. Using the cypermethrin, simply spray as high up the sides of the home you can reach. Our pump sprayer is able to reach up to 30 feet high which is needed in many situations. For mild infestations, spraying the outside of the home will stop them. If the population is one which is established and is more than a year old, you will have to do more. In addition to spraying with cypermethrin, you will need to treat cracks and crevices with DRIONE DUST.
Drione: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
This material acts as a dessicant on the boxelder bugs and will make hibernation impossible. Drione is very to safe to use and yet very effective. Because it dries insects out, they find it to be irritating and just about any pest will avoid treated areas. Using a HAND DUSTER, apply the Drione to any crack, crevice, joint or seam where boxelders may enter. It may take a while to treat, but it will keep these invading pests out. Drione can also be used inside for wall treatments. Such areas are prime entry points and include electric outlets, switch plate covers, light fixtures, window and door frames.
Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader
BOXELDER BUG SPRAY FOR LIVING SPACES
If your home has already been invaded and you are finding the boxelders emerging inside, you must reduce their numbers. This can be done by vacuuming and treating with PT PHANTOM.
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
This aerosol is easy to use and it comes with a thin injector tube which allows you to treat thin cracks and seams through which the boxelders may enter. Treat the rooms where most of the activity is found. Treat around window frames, door frames, electric outlets, molding, light fixtures and just about any crack or crevice leading to the interior of walls or attic space. If the outside has been treated with Drione and Cypermethrin before the boxelders have moved in for the winter, you shouldn’t expect to have any coming inside. However, if you have experienced activity in the past, expect to see some even after treatment. Although this number should decrease, do not expect to get rid of them immediately. It will take a season or two for the cycle to be completely broken and their population diminished.
Once you have treated, only time will help the application to have it maximum effect. To help deal with the few you may still be seeing, a HAND HELD ZAPPER can be used. Its handy because it will kill just about any flying or crawling insect without making a mess.If you have a lot which are accumulating in cracks and crevices, our handy BUG VACUUM/ZAPPER may be better suited. It comes with it’s own recharger and works on just about any type of insect allowing for quick and clean bug removal.
Hand Held Zapper: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/hand-held-zapper
Bug Vacuum Zapper: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/electric/bug-vacuumzapper
Treating for boxelder bugs before they move into the wall voids of your home is the best way to stop invading populations. Expect to see them grouping in the fall as they prepare for their winter hibernation. Treat these congregations with Cypermethrin for quick control. If they have already established themselves inside, you will need to treat outside populations with cypermethrin, exterior wall cracks with Drione Dust and interior entrance cracks with PT Phantom. This practical approach will stop new infestations, force them away from your beneficial trees and shrubs in your yard and keep your home from becoming their winter play ground.
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Comments on BOXELDER BUG CONTROL
Joni @ 4:43 pm
Thanks for your help. The pictures were the best way to identify the bug.
mary @ 5:31 pm
Can’t you just cut the trees down and eliminate the bugs all together. Just bought a home, has 2 trees in back and the bugs are swarming all over the gazebo and house. I can’t see where there are any leaves on these trees.
Thank you.
Tech Support @ 6:33 pm
Of course you can remove the trees but why? If you want to remove these trees thinking it will get rid of the boxelder bugs, you’re mistaken. Here’s why.
Boxelders will come to certain trees to feed. They’ll do this in the spring, summer and fall. During the winter, they tend to amass and hibernate on these very same trees. But they also use homes as a place to hibernate because it’s nice and warm, has lots of cracks and crevices in which to hide and many times will provide much more protection from the harshness of winter. And if you have boxelder bugs on your home now, they’re using it to hibernate whether they visit the trees in your yard or not. So yes, you can remove the trees in your yard but it’s not likely this will have any impact on the boxelders that are using your home.
More importantly, once boxelderbugs start hibernating on a house, they’ll leave their scent all over it which in turn will attract more boxelders the following year. So ultimately if you don’t treat, the problem will get increasingly worse.
And if that’s not bad enough, it gets worse. Boxelders love the southern and western facing sides of any home. Ironically trees will many times shade a home which boxelders don’t like. During the winter, they love homes with no trees around them because these homes get the most direct sun. So in fact removing your trees could actually make the home more attractive to boxelder bugs!
Now if you see lots of boxelder bugs on your trees and don’t want them there, you can spray the bark of the tree and that will take care of them. But boxelder bugs rarely feed enough on any one tree to damage it so in most cases, spraying any tree when they are living or hibernating on it is not needed.
Lastly, boxelder bugs can easily travel several miles to find food. So even without nearby trees, the ones living on your house will merely fly off to get dinner elsewhere and come back to your house to live no matter how many of your own trees you cut down. In the end, removing trees won’t help the problem. But a simple fall and spring treatment with some Cypermethrin will keep them off your house and out of your living spaces for good.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Becky @ 10:17 am
We have found random Box Elders in our home for over a year. We are looking to treat the exterior of our house this spring but believe we have colonies inside. How do you find indoor colonies that may be living in walls? And what is the best method to eliminate (in addition to exterior treatment)?
Thank you!
Tech Support @ 10:42 am
As explained above in our article, you should dust wall voids to kill existing nests that may have moved into these voids. Listed above is Drione which works great but the less costly Deltamethrin Dust can do the job too. Apply these using a Hand Duster. In most cases, there will be 1-2 sides of the home the boxelder bugs are using but you should be able to figure it out based largely on where you’re seeing them.
As for the outside; treating in the spring is important and that could very well be now. Well, maybe not just yet depending on whether you’re seeing them or not on the outside of the home. But here in GA, they’ve been active the past few weeks which means it’s definitely time to spray. Exterior treatments should be done in the spring and then again in the fall. And sometime during the summer it would be wise to seal all the entrance ways you can see around windows, door frames, soffits, rain gutters, etc. This can really help. The Pur Foam we have listed above is by far the best way to seal them out. And don’t forget to dust the cracks before you seal them.
Drione: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust
Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader
Dave Strickland @ 11:51 pm
I have the Box Elders you show outside my house and some get inside but my real problem inside and out is a smaller version that is tan/gray in color and when you catch one they leave a sage type scent on you that’s hard to get rid of. Someone told me they were box elders but they look different and hang around box elders. My home is infested and nothing seems to kill them. What I want to know is will your pesticides kill them? And what exactly are they? I can send you some in an envelope for identification. Any way, help me pleaaasseee… Dave.
Tech Support @ 6:48 am
In fact we generally recommend the Cypermethrin and Spreader Sticker for any type of invasive pest like Boxelders, Asian Ladybugs, Kudzu Beetles, Stink Bugs, Ants and Wood Roaches. So whatever this beetle turns out to be, I’m sure the Cypermethrin can handle spray it so start with this applied to the outside of the home. Inside, go with either the Dforce (strongest with a slight smell) or Phantom (odorless but takes 2-3 days to start killing).
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Spreaders: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/spreaders/scatterbox-spreader
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Now if I was to guess what this bug might be without seeing a sample, I’d have to go with either Stinkbugs or Kudzu Bugs. Stinkbugs are about as large as Boxelders but the Kudzu Beetle is much smaller.
Stink Bugs: http://www.bugspray.com/article/stinkbug.html
Kudzu Beetles: http://www.bugspray.net/beetles/little-brown-beetle-on-house.html
barb schoenfuss @ 10:30 am
Hi. I have the boxelder poop on the house and had it professionally cleaned and it didn’t come off. Do you know of anything that will take it off? Thank you.
Tech Support @ 10:42 am
We have had similar reports over the years that the feces from boxelder bugs can stain with the only remedy to be painting over the stains. Be sure to add some NBS Paint Additive to the paint too. This way you’ll have in place a long lasting repellent to keep new boxelder bugs from coming around as well as many other pests that can stain your house. Alternatively you can spray the Cypermethrin to repel them because even if you paint, once your home is marked by this pest it will constantly be attracting them unless you spray.
NBS Repellent: http://www.bugspraycart.com/exempt/additive/nbs-paint-additive-16-oz
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Bill Moden @ 10:11 am
Thank you for all the info on boxelder bugs. My first battleground with these bugs was on my porch with a flyswatter (killing about 50 a day). However that form of assault doesn’t seem to reduce the number. My next form of defense will be this cypermethrin you mentioned. Thanx again. Bill.
Tech Support @ 10:30 am
No doubt the Cypermethrin will help. But remember to treat the surrounding area just off the porch. My guess is there must a nest close by, maybe in some mulch, which is breeding all the numbers you’re finding. Get those areas sprayed too and you’ll see even better results.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Scott Lewis @ 12:26 pm
The remedies you site with the spray and granules, are they safe for dogs or other pets?
Tech Support @ 12:31 pm
Absolutely. For more information on just how safe, review the “safety” video’s you’ll find at the bottom of every product page. In these video’s we go over how to handle, mix and apply the product as well as any special safety precautions you need to take. As you’ll learn, the key is following some basic rules like keeping the kids and pets away from the area you’re treating. But once the area is allowed to settle and dry, everyone will be able to return without risk or danger. All these vid’s can be seen here too:
Safety Videos: http://www.bugspray.com/video/safety-videos.html
Bryan Buchanan @ 11:48 am
I have an infestation of boxelder insects in the back corner of my lot. I had it treated by a professional pest company on the split rail fence, post and tree. However, I need something for my tomatoes, peppers etc. I found two red tomatoes ‘covered’ with them yesterday. What can I use on them? Thanks.
Tech Support @ 12:08 pm
No doubt boxelder bugs will target vegetable gardens from time to time. And since the products listed above aren’t to be used on vegetables, I’d recommend our organic MultiPurpose Insect Killer. It’s approved for use in organic gardens, works great on a wide range of pests and even though it doesn’t say Boxelder Bugs on it’s label, it will definitely kill them.
Organic Insect Killer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz
It can be used daily if needed since it has a “one day to harvest” label. But we’ve found that after people treat and knock out the initial infestations, they can usually go several days and even weeks between treatments after just 1-2 applications.
Chelsie @ 10:49 pm
Hello my previous apartment became slowly filled with box elder bugs. At first we noticed big ones then noticed them mating and then started finding eggs and babies and since our landlord did nothing we finally were able to move out. I tried to clean everything and search through everything the best I could before the move but I’m nervous the babies will follow us and we will have a never ending problem. We have been moved in for about a week and I have seen only one baby. There are no trees or really any grass around us..any suggestions or thoughts? Thanks!
Tech Support @ 12:04 am
Boxelders are easy to transfer from one location to another once they infest the living area of any home and the residents then up and move. To make sure they’re aren’t more where you now live, I suggest you do a thorough treatment of the living areas with an aerosol.
Phantom would be a good choice for this task since it’s highly effective on Boxelders. Phantom is odorless, goes on dry and lasts a long time. Treat all the moldings, around windows and any place you know they like to live based on where you saw them at your last residence. This will insure any you brought with you won’t have a chance to start a new population where you live.
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Bhoberg @ 9:27 am
I have a mandevilla tropical plant that boxelders are all over. I need to bring it in for the winter months but don’t want to bring it in until the bugs are gone. Anything safe for tropical plants? Any suggestions will be very much appreciated.
Tech Support @ 9:47 am
The word “tropical” when applied to plants means the plant is native to a tropical climate. And though these plants may be sensitive to cold temperatures, they are no more likely to be sensitive to any of the treatments we can use to control parasitic pests like boxelder bugs.
That being said, since I don’t how large your plant is, the general health of it nor how it might react to the more common materials I’d normally recommend, the use of something approved for organic gardening would be a fine work around that should take care of the problem yet keep your plant safe. Fortunately we have two organic gardening approved products that will be gentle yet strong enough to handle boxelder bugs.
The first one is an aerosol. Known as House Plant Insect Killer, this spray is easy to apply and will provide immediate relief. Boxelders don’t like it and will stay off treated plants for a day or two. They will also die if sprayed directly. Now if your plant is small, one can would be enough to handle the problem. Simply spray it down, let it sit for half a day and then once the bugs are all dead or gone, bring the plant inside.
But if you have a lot of plants to treat, the organic Multi Purpose Insect Killer would be the more efficient option. It’s a liquid you’ll mix with water and spray with a standard Pump Sprayer. Multi Purpose Insect Killer is highly effective on a wide range of pests including Boxelders.
Organic Insect Killer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/multi-purpose-insect-killer-24-oz
Eliminator: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/eliminator-gallon-sprayer
shirley burleson @ 12:54 pm
Just had box elder trees cut by city that were along ally boarding our property line that were interfering with power lines. They were outside our property line. Now we are greatly infested with the bugs in all sizes as they were in the trees reproducing. They are up and down tree limbs, all over almost anything including the grass, millions of them, the house is stucco and white. We have sprayed with some spray also laundry detergent mixture. Do we now try to use granules on grass and stronger spray on house and trees?? Please help we are quite worried how many are getting into walls. Thank you.
Tech Support @ 3:10 pm
No doubt the random take down of any tree can dislodge and relocate animals and insects alike. And when it comes to insects like boxelder bugs, the numbers can be astounding!
I suggest you get the Deltagard Granules applied immediately followed up by the Cypermethrin. The Cypermethrin should be applied to any tree and ground area where you see activity. Next, spray the exterior of the home to prevent nesting.
Now if you jump on this quick, you’ll be able to knock out any trying to relocate to your home. With fall fast approaching, they’re no doubt looking for a place to overwinter and rest assured, you don’t want your home to be their prime location of choice!
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
anne @ 4:46 pm
We have a tree that is covered from top to bottom, inside and out (it appears) with boxelder bugs. Before I saw this site, I sprayed the bugs on the trunk with sevin, some fell off, but they’re still milling around. Oh, they’re in the grass and beginning up another trunk, too. I’ll try the products you recommend, but what about the thousands that are up covering the branches on the treetop (say 40 feet)? Thanks for any help.
Tech Support @ 10:18 pm
Before you do any spraying, be sure to get the Deltagard applied to as much of your turf as you can. This is important because when you spray, many will flush off the tree and migrate to other parts of your property. Now if you don’t have the granules in place prior to spraying, boxelders can elude the treatment and that means they’ll continue to thrive elsewhere. But if you have the granules applied, any that migrate will surely die.
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Next, spray as much of the tree as you can with the Cypermethrin. It’s fast acting and can be applied to all parts of the tree trunk. Using a Hose End Sprayer, you should be able to reach quite high too. Certainly 25-30 feet if not higher since it uses the water pressure of your garden hose. Our Trombone sprayer is another great way to reach high up as you can see in the video we have demonstrating how high it can reach which is 30 ft and more.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Hose End Sprayer: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/gilmour-20g-390
Trombone: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/sprayers/trombone-sprayer
Bev Marks @ 11:59 am
Are the products you have mentioned safe for birds and other wildlife? I have numerous feeders and do not want to have an adverse effect on the environment.
Tech Support @ 12:10 pm
All the products we have listed above can be safely applied in the yard without any danger being presented to pets, wildlife or people. Remember, once they’ve been mixed and dispersed, the actives will be minute over the area they’re applied which is why they cannot do any harm when used in the way described on their respective labels. More information can be learned from our Safety Videos which can be viewed on every product page. We also have more info posted here that helps to explain this fact:
http://www.bugspray.com/about-us/who_is_bugspray.html#safe_for_the_home
Bonnie Lehmkuhl @ 4:57 pm
Where do you buy this stuff to get rid of box elder bugs? How much is it to treat a house outside and inside? How often do you have to do it too?
Tech Support @ 5:04 pm
Click on the products above to see them in our cart. Where they appear “blue”, those are the links. The main products people spray is the Cypermethrin and Spreader Sticker and here are links for them.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Spreaders: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/spreaders/scatterbox-spreader
You’ll use 1 oz of each per gallon of water and you’ll spray 2-3 gallons for the average sized home. Treatments can last several weeks but you should retreat as is needed to keep them off the home because if you let them linger, they’ll no doubt start nesting in the home which you don’t want.
Now there are other items you might need but if you review the material above, you’ll learn the details of what might be needed.
Bev Marks @ 5:59 pm
We have ordered the Cypermethrin and Spreader Sticker and it should arrive tomorrow. We have been using dishwashing soap and water to control a very large infestation of nymphs, spraying several times daily since we discovered them. That is helping but it has to be done every day. Now we are seeing the adults also. I have only found two nymphs and one adult in the house but it is getting cooler here in IL. I have 2 questions. Do we have to repeat the Cypermethrin application more than once this fall? Also, our home is painted cedar and there are so many crevices it will be virtually impossible to hit them all. If they overwinter in these crevices and behind shutters how can I keep them from laying eggs in the spring? We have two maple trees and an ash and wetlands that we back up to. We noticed a woodpecker this summer in the ash frequently. Is there a product we can use to keep them from laying eggs to alleviate another infestation of this magnitude. I have never experienced this since moving to this house 3 years ago. I read on one site that a hot drought summer like we had can add to this problem. Thank you so much for all the wonderful info you have provided on your site.
Tech Support @ 8:59 pm
When the Boxelder Bugs first come to any home, they won’t be hiding. That means a good application with the Cypermethrin will knock them right out before they get “embedded” on the home. The key is getting them before it gets cold so you are definitely ahead of the curve. Boxelders are hardy and will be active well into November so 2-3 treatments should cover you this fall. Many homes will do one good treatment and then followup a few weeks later to be sure they’ve got it under control but that’s usually all you’ll need to do. Only the worse problems will require more than two applications in the fall or spring.
Now keep in mind that if you have warm days during the winter and any emerge, you need to spray. Getting them when they come out on either warm winter days or next spring is important and key to breaking the cycle.
Lastly, don’t be afraid to spray any plants or ground where you see them active. Boxelders will typically get into pine straw and other ground cover and treating these areas are many times needed too.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Spreaders: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/spreaders/scatterbox-spreader
tmarsh @ 3:57 pm
This page has a lot of great information about controlling box elder beetles. I read the products are safe for people and wildlife; however, my concern is that my dog eats these bugs like they are treats. If she eats the dead bugs would this be harmful for my dog? Thanks!
Tech Support @ 4:25 pm
We definitely understand your concern and the answer to your question is no, the dead box elder bugs will not pose a hazard to your pet even if they eat any. Here’s why.
The pesticides listed above will be so diluted down when applied they can’t hurt people or pets. And that’s if you ingested them directly. Now once you spray the mixed solution, it will be dispersed over such a large area that one cannot pick up any significant amount of the active and for that reason, there is no risk or inherent danger where they’re applied.
Additionally, the pests that die from the treatment won’t have any measurable amount of the treatment on them so they too won’t pose any hazard.
Now yes, the concentrate in it’s original form would make one sick if they drank some straight from the bottle and for this reason it must be stored where kids and pets won’t have access. But once mixed, they just don’t have that potential anymore because they’re so dilute.
More information on this subject matter resides here:
Product Safety: http://www.bugspray.com/about-us/who_is_bugspray.html#safe_for_the_home
Judy @ 6:55 pm
Something else boxelders do is to eat the insulation of insulating draperies and ruining them.
Tech Support @ 7:19 pm
They most definitely can cause damage to items made with natural ingredients. Rugs, furniture, carpeting and other things found in living areas of most any home can all serve as food for boxelder bugs!
Sherrill Muller @ 7:13 pm
If you seal the cracks after they move in will they die or just continue to live inside?
Tech Support @ 11:38 pm
If you seal the cracks without first treating with some Dforce or Phantom Aerosol, whatever is living in the space will most likely end up migrating deeper into the house and this could present all kinds of other issues. So definitely seal the home; just don’t seal up live pests in the process. Treat the cracks first, let the treatments sit for a day and then go to work with some Pur Foam to insect proof the structure.
D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Pur Black: http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/aerosol/pur-black
Pur Gun: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/tools/pur-shooter-basic-gun
melanie lindberg @ 9:58 pm
We had a rough time with them in the summer but I thought they die when it’s this cold. Now there are a few in the house and I’m just wondering why? Is there a nest like you spoke about somewhere? We live by the river. Does that contribute to the problem?
Tech Support @ 10:19 pm
If you read our article above, you’ll learn that if you let boxelder bugs live on or around your home, they’ll end up inside once it gets cold. This is because they don’t die from year to year but instead hibernate. Boxelder bugs love to hibernate on manmade structures and once they’re hibernating on a home, they’ll readily move inside because the inside of most any home is usually warmer than the outside air during the winter months.
So to answer your questions; they’re coming inside your home because there must have been some nesting on the exterior of your home this past fall. And living by a river would no doubt “help” because it usually means there will be moisture and good ground cover which they need for nesting. But even with a river close by there is no need to have a boxelder problem if you take a proactive stance and treat as explained above.
Now since they’re probably not active outside if it’s winter by you now, I would focus my attention on the inside of the home for now. And that means a lot of crack and crevice treating with some Phantom aerosol.
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Phantom is an odorless material that will last a month or so when applied to cracks and crevices around the baseboard, window frames, door frames, outside light fixtures, etc. where boxelder bugs nest. And once you kill them in these nest sights, you should see a reduction in how many are active in the home for now.
Come spring, you should do some treating outside to insure they’re not nesting in the mulch, under pine straw or on your homes siding. These treatments will involve the Deltagard Granules applied to the ground and the Cypermethrin sprayed on the homes exterior.
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Doing these treatments every 1-2 months will both kill off any populations living on the home and help to prevent any more from coming back to hibernate next fall. In the end, these applications will insure you don’t get any inside come next winter.
kimberly dickenson @ 12:00 am
I have a lot of boxelder bugs in my basement. Most of them are dead but now I’m finding them in my living room and bathroom. Its winter time and I’m not sure where they came from. They are becoming a real problem. How do I treat for them and get rid of them? Thank you.
Tech Support @ 12:30 am
First, read the article above. It will help explain why your home is getting infested with boxelder bugs and how you can treat your home to prevent this kind of problem from continuing.
As you’ll learn, for now you should treat inside with Dforce or Phantom aerosol. Both will handle boxelder bugs fine and can be used in any room which is showing activity. The Dforce is stronger smelling and works quickly; the Phantom is just about odorless but will take a day or two for the bugs to start dying.
Regardless of which you choose to apply, once you get all the the cracks and crevices where they might be nesting treated, you can effectively take away any chance of them getting established in these rooms.
D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Now come the spring, summer and fall, you should start doing some outside applications to get rid of them for good.
In most cases, spraying the outside of the home with Cypermethrin will do the trick. But if you’re finding them on a tree, in some pine straw mulch around the home or in other areas of the yard, you’ll need to first apply Deltagard granules to the turf and then spray over the top with the Cypermethrin.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Mary Anne Winslow @ 1:23 pm
Thanks for all the great comments. I came home today to find about 15 box elders on the inside of a sliding glass door in our kitchen. Last fall they swarmed by the hundreds on the west side of our house. You mention several products. Which is the BEST product to eradicate these creatures inside and out?
Tech Support @ 4:06 pm
If you read through the article, you’ll learn that in fact we have all these different products listed because they’re all used in different areas of the home depending on where the problem is centered.
True, in most cases, you’ll at least need to spray the outside exterior of the home and do some inside treating of cracks and crevices. And the basic products for this would be the Cypermethrin and Spreader Sticker for the outside:
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Spreaders: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/spreaders/scatterbox-spreader
And for the inside, the crack and crevice aerosol known as Phantom is ideal (since it’s odorless and goes on dry) but Dforce can be used too.
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
D-Force: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol
Now if they’re living in wall voids or attic spaces, you’ll need the Deltamethrin seen here:
Delta Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/deltamethrin-dust
And lastly, if they’re active in the yard around trees, flower beds and mulch areas (especially during the summer and fall), the Deltagard Granules would be best suited. Treating these areas when it’s warm outside will get rid of them where they’re surely nesting and in turn, slow if not stop the migration to the home.
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Chris F @ 2:43 pm
Hello,
I live in Central Illinois and got the first nice warm days of the year in a new house. I found probably what would be a couple of hundred boxelders on the outside walls of an addition over a crawl space. I sprayed them with bug spray and then soap and water as I read that worked good. They did all die but there is a definite problem. What steps (in order) should I take to start the process of removing these things!?
Thanks!
Tech Support @ 4:58 pm
For starters, read the article above. It will go over all you need to do, the products you need to use and how to apply them. No doubt you’ll need to start using the items we have listed in the article if you want to get rid of them for good. Boxelders are persistent and you’ll need to use the professional products if you want to get rid of them for good. After reading it, if you need some further assistance let us know and we’ll try to help.
Chris F @ 1:48 pm
I have read the article but it really doesn’t say where to start. Maybe I need to add some more information.
-I have a house with vinyl siding
-I have a basement but area of addition where they seem to be gathering is over a crawl.
-I don’t have many inside…maybe 5 or so at most but LOTS outside.
With that where do I start?? spray, dust, seal, ?? Do I start now or wait until I see them or certain time of year??
I assume I will be battling them all year but want to take the right steps at the right time in the right order to make sure they dont come back …or find a home in my home this coming winter.
Thank you!
Tech Support @ 2:09 pm
Based on the information you’ve provided, it would appear all you need to do now is to apply some granules and then spray the siding of the home. So in the turf around the home – especially on the side that has the activity – apply the Deltagard Granules.
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Next, spray the Cypermethrin onto the siding of the home using 1 oz per gallon of water per 800 sq/ft of surface area.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
This should take care of any nesting in the ground and/or on the home and in theory, knock them out. Now it doesn’t mean you should expect one treatment to get rid of them for good. My guess is you’ll need to start now and maybe after 2-3 treatments, they’ll pretty much be gone.
As for the inside; there is no evidence to suggest you need to treat there yet based on the small amount you’re seeing inside. But if you start the outside treatments and the activity inside doesn’t stop or at least reduce somewhat, get some Phantom and start treating any room with activity.
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
The part of the article that covers this in more detail is here:
http://www.bugspray.com/articles98/boxelder.html#boxelder-bug-outside-spray
Chris F @ 4:04 pm
THANK YOU SO MUCH! ..and will check back in after a few applications to let you know the progress.
Marie L @ 12:20 pm
I too have issues with these ugly elder bugs. The spray treatment you recommend for the exterior of the home; will it stain my siding? Its vinyl. I’ve made the mistake of using an insect spray before and needless to say it left a slight stain on the viny siding. My husband was very upset. Please let me know.
Tech Support @ 12:38 pm
Most over-the-counter products contain solvents and stabilizers that can affect plastic and cause staining. But we don’t carry these types of products. Most all of our pesticides are water based with very little of the concentrate used when in the tank when you mix up a gallon to spray. The net result is that what you’re spraying is usually 99% water.
So to answer your concern; none of our products will stain.
However, if you were to use the wettable powder form of the Cypermethrin, it could leave a “pollen” like film where it’s applied and this film could be noticeable on most any dark surface. And when sprayed on vinyl siding that’s dark, you might be able to see where it was applied.
So if you were to go with the wettable power form and found it left a visible residue, simply wash it off.
But clearly the easier option would be to use the emulsifiable form of Cypermethrin. This form is a liquid and once mixed with water, won’t leave any visible residue so once it’s dry you won’t even know it’s there.
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Stephen Breen @ 4:13 pm
I see a lot of Box Elders that look like they are reproducing, usually a large one with a small one attached to each other at the rear. I have not seen any pictures to be able to identify male from female. Any suggestions?
Tech Support @ 4:31 pm
No doubt you need to treat the problem before the population grows anymore. What you’re seeing is exactly what you think you’re seeing: reproducing box elder bugs.
And if you leave them be to reproduce and thrive, their population will no doubt grow. This is generally the sequence of events that happens around the home which ultimately leads to them getting inside and causing an unwanted infestation.
Now since you didn’t say where you’re seeing all the activity, I’m not able to specifically list what you’ll need to treat. But if you review the article above, you’ll learn what we recommend for the various areas. And here’s a quick summary.
So if the activity is in the yard, go with the Delta Gard Granules applied to the ground and then either the Cyonara RTS or Cypermethrin sprayed over the top.
DeltaGard: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/delta-guard-20-lb
Cyonara RTS: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/cyonara-32-oz-rts
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
If the activity is located on the home, spray it with the Cypermethrin.
And if the activity is inside the home, treat the active rooms with Phantom aerosol.
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
In some cases dusting wall voids and/or attics is required to knock out any pockets that might have moved into these spaces.
Drione: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Hand Duster: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader
Hope this helps.