HIVE BEETLE CONTROL

    This article is about HIVE BEETLE control.
It will explain why they are a pest and what
needs to be done for controlling infestations.
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   Hive Beetles are fast becoming a major pest to anyone
who keeps bees. Wax moths and Varroa mites have caused
their share of damage over the years but this new pest,
another import not native to the United States, seems to
be of particular concern. Confirmed as being established
since 1998, this beetle is now found in many states. If
you keep bees, add the Small Hive Beetle to your list of 
"insect enemies".
   Hive beetles are largely scavengers that are drawn to
honey and pollen. Bees and bee keeping equipment have
both such attractants so they act as a magnet to any
foraging adult hive beetles. Adult beetles can fly
and will seek out food on which they can feed and lay
eggs. They are small, about 1/4" long, with flat bodies.
They appear dark brown, nearly black, to the naked eye.
Adult females will start laying eggs within a week of
emerging from their pupae. Eggs will be laid in cracks
and crevices of hives and bee keeping equipment. In
a few days, these eggs will hatch and larva will emerge
and immediately begin feeding. If they have a good
food supply, they'll mature in 2-3 weeks and migrate
out and off of equipment and host hives. They'll seek
soil; larvae need the ground in which to pupate and
become adults. Metamorphosis will last 3-4 weeks and
adults will arise from the ground seeking food and nest
sites to renew this cycle. Adults can live at least
6 months and it is commonly believed that 5-7 generations
of hive beetles can cycle annually.
   In Africa, hive beetles aren't much of a problem. In
fact, there are at least two species; "small hive beetles"
and "larger hive beetles". Data shows these species tend
to attack weakened bee colonies and are thus thought of
as secondary pests. It could be that healthy bee colonies
are absconding and thus don't fall victim to the invasion
but nevertheless, that doesn't seem to be the case here 
in the states. Currently the species identified in the 
United States is the "small hive beetle" and it seems 
to successfully infest any bee colony it finds. It most 
likely has something to do with it's newness to the 
land; behavioral patterns of the bees here in the States, 
along with a whole set of different climatic influences, 
are undoubtedly at work. Over time a detectable pattern 
may evolve but it's too soon to tell right now. The one 
common thread, when it comes to the hive beetle, is quick
reproduction and quick colony destruction. For this reason, 
anyone who keeps bees should watch for this pest and take 
corrective measures sooner rather than later. 
   Hive beetle damage takes place during their scavenging
once they find their way into a bee colony. Adult hive
beetles can seemingly coexist with bees. But the actions
of the beetles seem to trigger a series of events which
ultimately doom the bees; the threat of the hive beetle
presence isn't acknowledged and largely ignored. Since
adults seek pollen and honey, they'll forage throughout
the hive causing damage as they go. Newly formed combs
are prime targets and once opened, become vulnerable.
Hive beetles defecate continuously and once the honey
in a comb is contaminated, it will ferment and bubble
all over. This frothy brown honey has a strong citrus
odor and will accumulate at the bottom board. Along
the way, female hive beetles will be laying eggs in 
every crack and crevice they find. Hatching larvae
will start to feed and can be found throughout the hive.
Adults will be feeding on just about anything including
their own eggs, young and even bee eggs. Emerging and
migrating larvae ready to pupate will leave dark lines
or streaks along the outside of hives. These are all 
tell tale signs of local infestations and should not be
ignored.
   Unfortunately, there is no one "magic bullet" when
it comes to hive beetle control. Since they are new to
the region, at this time there are limited products
which list hive beetles on the label. CheckMite+,
mostly used for Varroa Mite control, has been found
to help. In many states, hive beetles have been
temporarily added to the label so that bee keepers
can employ this product directly to the hive. But
for anyone that doesn't want to invade bee hives 
directly with pesticides, there are other less
invasive options. 
   First, it's important that all equipment be
cleaned and treated. Hive beetle eggs, larva and
adults will thrive on equipment left alone and untidy.
Bee houses are commonly infested since scavenging
adults don't discriminate where they nest. In other
words, you must think "outside the hive" when it comes 
to hive beetles. Some keepers have resorted to what
they call "fumigation" but really what they are doing
is a type of fogging or misting. Fortunately, hive
beetles are easy to kill. Both adults and larvae are
susceptible to most any pesticide. The secret here
is that you don't want to use something which leaves
residual! Such products could ultimately impact your
hives so be sure to limit your product choices to
products which are pyrethrin based. If you have a small
bee house, storage shed or some equipment you want
to treat, something like PT-565XLO will prove safe
and effective. It uses pyrethrin as the active and
though works as a contact kill when you apply it, 
within a short time it will dissipate. Outside, it
will barely last a minute or two. Inside bee houses,
it will probably remain active for an hour or two 
at most. PT-565 can be directly sprayed on equipment
or into air spaces for volumetric treatments. It
will knock out Varroa Mites and Wax Moths too but 
remember, bees don't like it so don't use it around 
hives. If you wish to apply pyrethrin but in a more
controlled manner, get EXCITER. This pyrethrin 
concentrate mixes with water and can be applied with
one of our SPRAYERS. Exciter will provide a quick
knockdown of hive beetles but it won't last long
so its OK to use where bees might be active. It
can also be applied in a fogging machine if you have
large bee houses or storage sheds that need to be
fogged from time to time. For most applications,
out MINI-FOGGER will do the job but a larger machine
might be needed for big areas in excess of 5000 sq/ft.
The FM6309 and FM6208 are better suited for this.
   Another area that should be treated is the soil
surrounding the hives. Since mature larvae will forage
out of hives and down into the ground, many people
feel this is the best way to approach the problem
and insure they don't get well established. Clearly
treating the soil with a residual pesticide should
make for a certain death to foraging larvae. Remember,
something like Exciter wouldn't work for this site.
The pyrethrin would be active when applied but within
a short while - just an hour or so - it would break
down and loose it's effectiveness. For this reason
you need something that provides residual. The most
common product for this area to use is Gardstar. It
uses a 40% Permethrin as the active and will last
1-2 months. A more cost effective product to use is
most commonly applied in the pest control industry
for termites. It too is used in the soil and has
a 36.8% Permethrin as the active but its a lot less
expensive. Known as PERMETHRIN SFR, it can be used the 
same way as the Gardstar; drench the ground making sure 
not to spray hives or other areas where bees are active.
PermSFR can be tank mixed and sprayed on buildings
and other areas outside where hive beetles might be
active but where bees don't normally go. Another material
that uses Cyfluthrin as the active ingredient is a mild
granule called CYFLUTHRIN GRANULES. This material can be 
sprinkled out in the turf under hives once a month
and will provide protection against foraging larvae.
It's very mild and not cost effective compared to 
the PermSFR but it will work fine for small areas.
   One last approach that has been found to be 
effective is the use of ROACH BAIT STATIONS. These
bait stations have long been used inside homes for
controlling german cockroaches. The attractant used
in the station seems to be highly attractive to small
hive beetles. When placed outside hives, foraging
adult beetles will readily find them. They will
quickly die, usually within a day, after feeding.
The stations don't seem to attract bees but the 
beetles definitely love them. Remember, these 
stations aren't made to be used outside so sheltering 
them on the bottom side of hives is suggested. This
will help protect them from direct sunshine and rain.
And don't forget to replace the stations as needed 
since large beetle populations can empty a station 
within a week.
   Hive beetles may be new to America but their
foraging, scavenging and nesting alongside any
bee colony will have devastating consequences. If
you want to keep your colony alive and kicking,
don't allow this pest to get established. Soil
treating under hives as well as preventive baiting
can help. And if you have current activity, hive 
relocation and equipment treatment might be required. 
Remember, failure to address any population will lead 
to a reduction in honey production as well as 
jeopardize the wellness of your bees. 

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