This article is all about TREE and FLYING squirrel
control. It will explain why they are a pest and what
needs to be done for controlling infestations.
PLEASE NOTE: YOU CAN SEE PICTURES AND PRICING
OF ALL THE PRODUCTS LISTED IN THIS ARTICLE BY
CLICKING YOUR MOUSE CURSOR WHERE PRODUCTS APPEAR
UNDERLINED IN THE TEXT BELOW. Most of your
questions will be answered in the article. Be
sure to read all of it before you call in for
technical support.
If you are looking for information about other
squirrels, chipmunks or any other insect or animal,
go to our article archive section by following the
link below where you will find in depth articles
and information on just about any pest.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO OUR PEST INDEX PAGE
TREE SQUIRREL AND FLYING SQUIRREL CONTROL
Throughout the year, many rodents will find
their way into your home. If you are hearing noises
in the attic during the day or night, you may have one
of these critters: either tree squirrels or flying
squirrels.
There are three common tree species of tree squirrels
found in the United States. The Fox, the Eastern Gray
and the Red Squirrel. Though Flying squirrels are
considered tree squirrels, they are quite different
and should be viewed as a related but unique animal.
This is true for many reasons which will be discussed
later in this article.
Fox squirrels are found from Canada down to
Florida though they do not live much west past the
Mississippi or much east past Pennsylvania. They
have remained in the heart land of the United States
for some time and appear to have a stable region
in which they reside. Eastern Gray squirrels were
once just east of the Mississippi including all states
from Florida up to Maine. They have been slowly
making their way into new states most likely due
to their adaptability and reproductive rates. The
Red Squirrel is the only one which is not found much
below Virginia on the east side of the country but
they are found in most northern states. They are also
found in the far western region of the states including
California to Texas and back up again through the
Dakotas.
The Flying squirrels are basically divided into
two species - the Northern and the Southern. The line
dividing the two is somewhere in the northern part of
the country around Pennsylvania and across to
the Great Lake States. Above this line is where
the Northern species resides - all through Canada -
and then back down again into California an several
other northwestern states. Ever seen one? If not,
view this short video that shows one clearly.
Although most squirrels are welcomed in
parks and around the yard, they are a pest once
inside your home. As wooded lots are cleared, tree
squirrels are displaced from their natural habitat and
forced to find new homes. If conditions are right,
they will move into attics, eaves and soffits of any
structure. Once inside the structure, they will cause
damage to insulation, rafters and electric wires. The
same thing is happening with flying squirrels. Flying
squirrels are much smaller than tree squirrels and
most people have never seen one in the wild. They
are nocturnal. They're also agile and can enter a
structure through the smallest crack or hole. Once
inside a structure, they too can cause damage to
insulation, wood and electric wires. In fact, this
problem has caused most insurance companies to add
disclaimers about fires caused by squirrels. In
general, they will not pay on damage caused by squirrels.
This includes damage to the home as well as fires
which are started by the chewing animals! This
disclaimer is written into every homeowner insurance
policy the author has seen in recent years. If your
policy does not cover damages due to rodents, don't
take an infestation lightly!
Prevention is the best policy to keep either
animal out. Both are quite successful in the wild
because natural predators such as fox, owls and
hawks are not as bountiful. Without natural
controls, these animals have populated to excessive
numbers in metro counties across the United States.
And as their natural habitat is cut down, they have
learned to live in almost any building man
constructs. There are conditions which are more
likely to attract them. By minimizing these
conditions, you may keep them in the woods instead
of your home!
WHY ARE THEY IN MY HOME OR YARD???
1. Be careful of bird feeders. People love to
watch birds and a properly placed bird feeder adds
so much to any landscape. But it also calls the local
CLICK HERE TO SEE A PHOTO OF A SQUIRREL BY A FEEDER
squirrels to your property. Over time tree squirrels
will learn where the food is coming from and soon
they will want to move inside your structure. Flying
squirrels will behave in the same way. The only
difference is they are active at night so you do not
know anything is happening. If you must have
a bird feeder, use a SQUIRREL PROOF BIRD FEEDER.
These will keep all the birds you could ever
want but at the same time prevent squirrels from
gaining access to the seed. The DELUXE BIRD FEEDER
is about as nice of a unit that you could ever
get and with its oversized seed bin, you won't have
to fill it frequently. Plus, it's not likely to
spill any seed so that curious animals which will
sometimes push, shake and persistently try their luck
won't be able to access any. Another option is the
use of WINDOW FEEDERS. These unique feeders aren't
squirrel proof but because they mount on the outside
of windows, can be placed where squirrels won't be
able to get on them. Effectively they are rodent
proof when used on windows without ledges or siding
close by that small rodents can climb. Over time,
squirrels will have to find their food elsewhere which
in turn will force them to nest and live away from your
home. But the authors favorite of all squirrel proof
feeders is the ELECTROCUTING FEEDER. This smart design
uses mild electric shocks to keep squirrels away.
Powered by two "D" cell batteries, this hanging
feeder has an on/off switch and a top which comes
off for easy seed fill up. The feeder will deliver
a mild shock to any animal large enough to touch
either the top or bottom base as well as one of
the seed perches or exit holes. When squirrels
find the feeder, they'll either walk onto the top
or jump onto the bottom of it. As they do this
they also attempt to grab one of the perches or
seed exit holes which effectively grounds the current
causing them to feel a mild shock. This will get
them off the feeder immediately! And it's fun to
watch!! One or two such experiences keeps even the
most aggressive squirrel at bay and so far there
are no reports of any being able to out smart the
design. Most importantly, birds can safely land
on any of the perches and get to the seed inside
without any chance of shock. They simply are not
large enough to touch one of the perches and either
the top or bottom base at the same time. Therefore
they cannot get shocked. This design will allow
you to keep your feeders close by so you can
enjoy your birds yet not attract squirrels. This
is paramount if you wish to get any type of
squirrel problem under control and feed birds
at the same time.
2. Cut away all branches which are hanging
over your buildings. Any tree, bush or shrub which
is close to your building is a route of entry and needs
to be cut back. Small shrubs and bushes are not bad
but tree limbs which hang over or within twenty feet
of your roof is a definite route of entry. Squirrels
will use this route as a way to get onto your roof.
Once on the roof these rodents will discover a way
into your attic.
3. Install gutter guards and either cover all
down spouts with screening or connect them to
corrugated pipe which is buried. Tree squirrels will
access your roof from climbing up through down
spouts. Once they get to the roof they will crawl
through your gutter and gain access to your attic by
squeezing into a crack which is common between
the facia board and the roofing. Flying squirrels
are able to fit through the smallest of cracks since
they have a soft and pliable body. This space between
the facia board and rooftop is very accessible to
them and they can reach it by "flying" from trees which
are over 100 feet away from the structure! Even if this
crack is tiny, any squirrel will easily chew through
the wood to get in. They will do this chewing naturally;
nature tells them to nest inside the hollows of trees
and any empty space such as that which is behind facia
boards or above soffits will attract squirrels
naturally. If down spouts are covered and gutter
guards are installed, you'll dramatically reduce the
amount of squirrels entering from these points.
Once inside your structure, squirrels will
make a lot of noise and cause damage. The first
sign of an unwanted guest is noise. These noises
may be in the attic or walls. Try to inspect these
areas. You must identify who the intruder is before
you can address it. If the noise occurs at night, the
animal is probably nocturnal. Flying squirrels make a
lot of noise and you will hear them anytime between
sunset and sunrise. Tree squirrels are active during
the day and you would expect to hear them anytime
between sunrise and sunset. Tree squirrels will
confront you in the attic. To them, you are an
intruder. If you go in the attic to inspect, tree
squirrels will stand their ground. Flying squirrels
will avoid you at all costs. They will burrow into
insulation and generally do not want you to
see them. Droppings are another clue. Tree
squirrels will leave droppings anywhere; flying
squirrels have a designated place where these
droppings will accumulate. If you are finding
droppings all over the attic but you only hear
noise during the night, you have either mice or
roof rats. Go back to our article archive section
where you will find a great article about these
pests and how to control them. We also have great
information about raccoons, opossums and just
about any other creature which might be able to
find it's way into your home.
HOW TO CONTROL THE INVASION....
Once the rodent is properly identified, it
needs to be removed. Don't waste your time with
glueboards or snap traps. You may get lucky
and catch one or two with such a device, but
once others see their friends and family
trapped and killed, they won't go near one!
Forget about using some kind of poison to
kill them. There is none labeled for squirrels.
Rodenticides are for rats and mice only.
Squirrels don't like to eat the poison but
if you mix it with some attractant you might
get some hungry squirrels. In general, it will
take a lot to kill a tree squirrel. Furthermore,
these animals tend to hoard food and are
likely to be taking your bait and not eating it.
This is particularly true with any of the pellet,
meal or bait block formulations. The only baiting
which seems to work for squirrels is the use of
a LIQUID POISON with a paste attractant. Liquid Poison
is generally used for rats where water is scarce
and rats are likely to be seeking water. However, it
will work for squirrels by mixing it with some of ourTRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN PASTE. To prepare this bait,
mix a jar of our Pecan Paste with a bag of the Liquid
Poison in a sandwich bag. Place it in the attic where
you know there is activity. Because the bait is a paste
which is mushy and soft, squirrels are not able to hoard
it. It is highly concentrated with nuts and other
nutrients so they will consume all placements quickly.
This will lead to a quick death; one placement is
enough to kill 1-2 squirrels and they usually will
die 2-3 days following consumption. However, there
are problems associated with the use of any poison
and when using it for squirrels, the risks are just
as prevalent. The biggest problem with using a poison
is the risk of having the animal die some-
where and smelling. Most rodenticides work
on animals by blocking the bodies ability
to make platelets. Platelets are vital to
mammals in that they help blood to clot.
When blood does not have platelets, any animal will
bleed to death. This inability of their
blood to clot will lead to their death. After
they ingest enough of a rodenticide, they
are not able to recover from a cut or
internal hemorrhage. In effect, they will
die of internal bleeding. This type of
death is messy and can occur in your
attic, basement, crawl space, wall, yard, roof,
or home. There are no rodenticides which cause
animals to "seek water, dehydrate or embalm themselves."
All these claims are stories fabricated by the
individuals applying the products because it is
what people want to hear. Simply put, if you
use rodenticide, you are at risk of having the
animal die somewhere inaccessible and smelling
for some time. If this happens, you will need to
use an odor eater which "consumes" the odor as it
is released into the air. ODOR KILLER is such a product.
Odor Killer is enzymal in it's behavior. It works by
eating the odor molecules. Odor Killer will work best
when placed closest to where the animal has died.
This can be difficult to do if the animal is
inaccessible so the next best thing is to spray some
into the wall void or attic area where it is suspected
to be laying. You can also make small placements in
the room or rooms where the odor is strongest. The
material will remove the odor as it is released. You
will need to renew the placements every few days until
the body of the squirrel has completely decomposed.
This usually takes 2-6 weeks - depending on local
temperatures and insect activity. If the death occurs
in the winter, expect the odor to last several months
or until certain insects are active which will feed on
the carrion. Given the problems with snap traps,
glueboards and poisons, it makes sense to deal with this
problem the way a professional wildlife control
specialist would; the use of live or kill traps.
Though the thought of trapping sounds like a lot of
work, it is actually quite easy. Furthermore, most
problems involve several animals. Long term control is
further complicated because squirrels are territorial.
Once you remove the squirrel which is active in your
home another will quickly occupy the vacated territory.
This is why trapping is generally the best method
to employ. Both live trapping and kill trapping are
effective. Kill trapping eliminates the need of having
to relocate the animal which saves time; live trapping
is more humane but means you will have to take the
squirrel at least 10 miles away to insure it won't
return. See three released in this short video.
Live trapping is easier to do and easier
on the conscience; kill trapping is preferred by
people who have been fighting squirrels for a long
time and have no problems destroying the animals
which are causing damage to their home. Either method
is effective and the following text will describe in
great detail what tools you will need to do the job
and how to go about getting the results you want.
Although it may sound difficult, live trapping is
quite easy. The key is a properly placed trap with
the proper bait and scent.If you are dealing with
tree squirrels, I recommend locating the trap along
their route of entry or where you know they are actively
foraging during the day. Tree Squirrels may seem to
be shy of a trap which is placed alongside their nest in
the attic so this isn't a good location. Try to place the
trap on the roof, at the base of the building or at the
foot of a tree they are climbing. Use a professional
attractant such as TRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN PASTE. This
material has been formulated in such a way that squirrels
cannot ignore it. A tablespoon placed on the trip pan
in the trap is strong enough to attract any squirrel but
adding a visual food source strongly suggested. Bird seed,
acorns, walnuts or shelled peanuts all will work and should
be scattered in the back of the trap by the trip pan. Be
sure to place a few at the entrance so the foraging animal
knows there is something worth getting inside. For more
tips on how to best set a live trap, watch this short
video that shows both good trap location and proper
baiting methods.
Remember, nuts in general do not give off enough aroma to
attract squirrels but with the paste are a combination that will
attract them from far away. This allows for quicker catches.
Check out our video to see that squirrels will readily
enter any trap as long as there is a reward waiting for them
inside. Watch this short video to see how they will
readily enter a properly set live trap.
The approach is different for flying squirrels because
they are most likely flying "into" your structure. To trap
flying squirrels you must place the trap in the attic where
they are active. This is where their droppings are or
where you see their burrows throughout the insulation. The
only bait which will work for them is our TRAPPERS
CHOICE PECAN PASTE and some Sunflower Seeds scattered
around. Use both a tablespoon of Trappers Choice Pecan
placed on the trip pan of the trap and at least 8 ounces
of sunflower seeds to insure a quick catch. Furthermore,
if they are active in trey ceiling areas or other
"tight" spots in your attic, getting your trap close
enough for successful catches could prove hard to do.
Flying squirrels don't like foraging around in attics
and it can sometimes be a challenge to get your trap
set close enough to where they are nesting or most
active. If this is the case in your attic, the use
of some NITE FLYER could be a big help. This oil based
attractant works as a "trailing" scent and is
used by placing 1 drop every 1-2 feet leading from where
the squirrels are most active to where the trap is being
set. Nite Flyer was designed for Flying Squirrels to help get
them to find live trap sets that much faster but it will
work on gray squirrels as well. There is no need to over
apply it so limit amounts to one drop at a time. However,
the further back into hidden and inaccessible areas you
can get some applied, the better "trail" you will create.
Ultimately, this will allow you to trap unwanted animals
that much faster and is particularly helpful for any
nocturnal animal like flying squirrels.
Now that you have a good idea of where you need to
place your trap and you know what type of lure to use
in it, let's discuss trap options. There are plenty of
live traps available on the market today but many are
not good quality or designed to "keep what they catch".
Flying squirrels can fit through the tiniest of spaces
and will easily escape from a 1" by 1" hole. For this
reason, you must employ a trap with wire spacing that
does not exceed 1/2" x 1" if flying squirrels are your
main target. And though most gray squirrels will readily
enter traps this small, there are certain advantages to
larger sized traps. In other words, try to determine if
you have flying squirrels or gray squirrels before you
start. If you are unsure, get the traps that you know
will work on flying squirrels; these same traps will
definitely work on gray squirrels as well. Since trap
design has been very progressive these past few years,
there are traps now being made for use in different
scenarios. Try to get a trap that will best fit your
application need. Live trap selection can be broken
down into three main categories. The following is a summary
of these categories along with links to all the traps
available.
1) ECONOMY TRAPS
Generally not the kind of trap a professional would
use, low cost traps are effective for small jobs where
the amount of trapping that will be done is minimal and
limited. Don't expect these traps to last long. Though they
look like costly alternatives, they will generally be
made of lesser quality components including the wire,
the binding components and their trip mechanisms. The end
result is a product that looks fine but one that won't
withstand the test of time. Use them only if you feel
you have a small problem and expect to be trapping 10
or less animals per trap over it's life time. And
remember this trap will only work on squirrels since it
uses 1" x1" wire mesh. This means flying squirrels can
readily escape this trap as can young gray squirrels.
But it will work OK for most adults and ground species.
For average to large animals, the 7x7x24 ECONOMY TRAP
should do the job.
2) LANDSCAPE BLENDING OR CAMOUFLAGED TRAPS
As the name suggests, thes
e traps are ideal for use
outside in the yard. The 5x5x16 GREEN LIVE TRAP will
work on either flying squirrels or gray squirrels since
it's made with 1/2" by 1" wire. The larger version should
only be used for grays. The 7x7x24 GREEN LIVE TRAP uses
1" by 1" wire and flying squirrels can easily escape from
it. These traps can be placed in the yard, around a tree
or small shrub and aren't easy to see. Their green color
helps to blend them into the environment making them
more readily entered by target animals as well as harder
for curious eyes to see. Either can be used inside too.
3) MULTIPLE CATCH TRAPS
When dealing with big populations, the use of a multy
catch trap help can save some time. Known as "repeaters",
these traps can hold several animals at one time. They
feature one way doors with two holding areas. Animals
enter the first door and cannot escape. Typically they'll
forage around in this holding area until they find the
second door which opens to the second holding area. They
will then go through this door and end up in the back of the
trap with no way to escape. These traps can be used outside
or inside and both are made with 1/2" by 1" wire. This
means you can use them for either flying squirrels or
gray squirrels. The 3.5x3.5x24 REPEATER is the preferred
size when targeting flying squirrels; the larger sized
5x5x30 REPEATER RD is better suited for gray squirrels.
It features a rear sliding door that makes animal release
easy once caught. This is a true professional trap made
of high quality components and will last a long time.
4) COMMERCIAL LIVE TRAPS
The best traps available today are the spring loaded
professional models. The LT5518 or LT5518RD will work well
for either flying or gray squirrels. They utilize 1/2"
by 1" wire and will last many years. The LT7824 is larger
and uses 1" by 1" wire so only use it for grays. These
traps are true profesional grade yet they are easy to
maintain and use. They are best suited for anyone that has
10 or more squirrels to trap or wants a trap that could
last indefinitely. The author has had one for almost 10
years and though he's had to clean it a few times, the
mechanism functions as well as it did when new. And this
trap is kept outside all year long so it's subjected to
extreme weather conditions yet it hasn't rusted out or
broken down. Get one of these if you expect to be keeping
it for a long time.
5) EXCLUDING REPEATING TRAPS
As the name implies, these unique traps are for special
applications where you need to both exclude and catch nuisance
animals. Designed to be set directly over the entry holes
target squirrels are using, these traps will funnel exiting
animals into a three sectioned compartment. You can only
employ this trap if you know the location of entry holes and
then only if this location will allow you to get the trap
properly mounted. Made of 1/2" by 1" wire, they will hold
either flying or gray squirrels. The 3.5x3.5x31 RE-EX is
adequate for either squirrel; use the 5x5x39 RE-EX if you
know you are dealing with gray squirrels only. What's
great about these traps is that target animals are both
excluded and caught by the same device. This means you'll
know for sure when all the animals inside have been caught.
Furthermore, you won't have to worry about any coming back
inside - the trap serves as a "cap" over the hole when
in place. Remember, this design is only designed to be used
over entry holes and it's important to get one installed
over each hole being used.
CLICK HERE TO SEE A PHOTO OF TWO SQUIRRELS TRAPPED
Here are a few tips for successful trapping.
1) Do not inspect the traps more than once a
day unless you know something has been caught.
Squirrels are great observers and if you are
seen in a given area repeatedly, you will
spook them into being very wary of this new
device which is suddenly available in their
territory and attracting attention from humans.
2) Tree squirrels are easy to catch outside so
expect to get one every couple of days when you
first start trapping. Catch success will drop
over time.
3) Although you may be catching more squirrels
than the ones inside your home, this is good.
By catching local squirrels and reducing their
populations, you are eliminating further problems.
This is because squirrels are territorial and
once you remove the ones in the attic, new ones
will try to occupy the vacated areas. To prevent
this from happening, reduce local populations by
live trapping and relocating before they get
inside.
4) Trap placements are effective by bird feeders,
nut trees, fence lines or any tree you know
local squirrels are using.
5) Be sure to use a tablespoon of our special lure
called TRAPPERS CHOICE PECAN PASTE. This blend
of nuts and oils has an aroma which will last
for days. Place a tablespoon on the trip pan of
your trap and smear it over the pan evenly. Next,
add birdseed or sunflower seeds behind the trip pan
as a visual aid. When squirrels make their way to
the trap they expect to see a lot of seed due to the
strong smell. Remember, the seed amount is the payoff.
5 or 10 seeds behind the trip pan may not be enough
to get them inside; their must be a pot of gold
waiting for them in order to make trap entry worth
the risk. Don't be afraid of adding 1/2 to 1 lb
of loose seed. It's OK if some is leaking out the sides.
This will let them get a taste of what awaits them
inside.
6) Place most of the bait behind the trip pan, but
be sure to place some seeds in front of the trap
and leading in the door. This will allow them to
follow the "trail" and find the entrance which
can sometimes be missed.
7) When using these traps where you suspect there
is more than one animal active, use two bait placements.
Do this by placing the recommended amount of seed
behind the trip pan but then add 1/4 of that
amount in front of the trip pan. This bait placement
will enable you to lure more than one animal in at a
time since the first one that enters will stop to
feed on the front placement and subsequent animals
entering while the first animal is feeding will
move to the back of the trap causing it to trip.
This will work for either type of squirrel and in any
of the traps listed above. In fact, we have had many
people catch two big tree squirrels in the LT5518 using
this exact baiting method. It will work better in
the middle and large size since there is so much more
room for more than one to enter and therefore the
level of being comfortable is increased.
8) If relocating trapped animals, make sure to take
them at least 10 miles away. The author has had
squirrels return up to 7 miles and expects they
can find their way back further if given the
chance. To prevent this from happening, do not
let them go closer than 10 miles away. Be sure
you measure in a straight line over air - not how
far you drive!
9) Flying squirrels need to be trapped in the
attic. Look for areas in the insulation where
you can see a lot of activity. Such areas will
have tunnels and nests which look like piles.
They prefer to leave their droppings in one
main area and this is a great place to trap
them. Chimney areas are a common place for
such activity as are voids behind trey ceilings.
These areas can be hard to reach but is critical
for successful catches.
10) Wait at least a two week period before you
try to close any holes you suspect are allowing
the animals to get inside. If you close the holes
too soon, the trapped animal may react violently
and at least will certainly chew another hole.
Keep reading for repellent information which can
be used when doing closure to help keep new
animals out and remember, never try to close any
animal out without relocating or destroying it.
Established squirrels consider your home their
home and if you close any holes you will only force
them to chew it back open or create new holes.
Routes of entry allow you to know where to make
successful trap sets so use them to your advantage.
If you've successfully trapped several and are unsure
if you still have any living inside the home, consider
installing some Excluders. These devices can be
mounted over entry holes and allow animals to exit
the hole but not enter. Excluders can be used as a
sort of "monitor". Once in place, you can watch it
to see if there are still animals trying to get back
inside. The 3.5x3.5x10 EXCLUDER will be plenty big
enough for flying squirrels; the 5x5x12 EXCLUDER is
better suited if you know you are dealing with gray
squirrels. Once installed, you'll know you still have
a problem if you note a lot of animals hanging around
within a day of it being installed. If that happens,
remove it and get back to trapping. Once you are sure
the nesting animals have been removed, you can either
reinstall the Excluders as a temporary fix to insure
new ones don't come around or you can go about doing
the real fix and seal the hole once and for all. Though
the use of wood and other building supplies may
be needed to do the closure, COPPER WOOL is very
easy to use and works great at keeping both squirrels
and rats from chewing back inside. It is easy to
work with and can simply be stuffed into the openings
without a lot of effort. It won't rust or break down
for a long time and is extremely effective when
you need to seal a lot of small openings which surround
the average attic. The use of some professional FOAM
is also recommended. If you have a lot of sealing to
do, get either the PUR STANDARD GUN or PUR 24" GUN.
These professional tools will let you apply the PUR BLACK CANNISTER to all cracks and crevices which
will do a great job of keeping out small rodents
and insects. If you have a lot of spaces and hollow
voids that will be filled, use the PUR FOAM W/REPELLENT
refill. It will expand more and includes a strong
repellent so you get extra protection - especially
from chewing and gnawing animals. If you decide to
tackle the sealing job yourself, do it right with the
right products and you will find that you can keep
squirrels out. Use the GUN CLEANER refill to keep any
of these applicators clean and ready for their next job.
Watch this video to see how we install both the Copper
Wool and some expanding Foam.
THE USE OF KILL TRAPS....Though the use of kill traps seem inhumane and
mean, many professionals use these devices for gaining
control. In fact, certain counties in some states
will not allow commercial trappers to relocate wild
animals. They must destroy them either on the property
or at their place of business. Other regions allow
the trapped animal to be disposed of at local animal
control offices. Though live trapping is very effective
and easy to do, kill trapping is an option and
will work well when a quick remedy is needed and
when entrance holes or pathways are known. The use of
such devices will help reduce the amount of time needed
to control large populations since there is no need
to worry about animal relocation.
When kill trapping, there are three primary devices
which are used. The most traditional is the BODYGRIP 55
or BODYGRIP 110 crush/type trap. These traps have
been around for many years and are readily used by
animal wildlife control officers as well as fur
trappers. Most commonly used for muskrat, these traps
work by crushing the target animal on it's head or
body leading to a quick kill. Trap placement is critical
and limited to ones imagination. The most common
set is just outside the entrance/exit hole leading into
the structure. If you know where the animals are
entering, simply place the trap outside the hole by
mounting the spring with some deck screws or long
nails. The best set will have the dog(part of the trap)
and trigger on the top of the trap and have enough play
so as to not restrict the trap when collapsing. This can be
a tricky trap to use first because it is hard to
set when standing on a tall ladder and second because
you need to create a mount on surfaces which are
hard to penetrate. The good point about using this trap
is that it is very effective since squirrels will
readily move through it as if it wasn't even there
leading to a quick kill. A quick reset of the trap
means you now are ready for any more which currently
are residing in your home or any which are looking
to move in. This type of set can be used by vents,
around chimneys, on fence tops and dryer vents.
Be careful where you place the trap, however, since
the springs are strong enough to break the hand of
children and put a hurting on anyone who gets
caught. This type of kill trap is best left to
professionals but if you are adventuresome and have
some prior experience using this design, they can
prove to be quite good at removing current populations.
A similar type of trap - but one which is much easier
to use - is the PIPE TRAP. This is a design which uses
a similar type of kill trap but builds the trap into a heavy
guage steel pipe which is 4 inches wide. Squirrels love
to enter pipes, tubes, hoses, down spouts and just about
anything which is hollow and round. This design takes
advantage of the squirrels natural curiosity but once
inside this pipe, they don't leave! Basically the trap
acts like a pair of pliers which are being closed on
the target animal. When set, the trap appears to be
a hollow pipe with some bait inside. There is a trip
pad in the middle and when the squirrel moves over the
pad, the jaws of the trap move up and pin the animal
to the roof of the pipe and essentially crushes the
animal to death instantly. The trap works like a rat
trap but is much stronger and faster. You don't have
to bait it but we do suggest a teaspoon of our Pecan
Paste be spread out over the trip pan to help get
squirrels into it that much faster. All you need to
do is place this trap anywhere you have seen activity.
This could be on the roof, alongside the home, along
side a tree or just out in the yard. The best place
to use it is alongside a tree you know they are using
and you will start to get your nuisance animals under
control immediately.
The third type of kill trap has only been around
for a few years but is both easy to use and effective.
It uses electricity to deliver a lethal shock which
kills the squirrel in less than a minute. Originally
designed for mice and rats, these devices are now
built with enough power to kill flying and/or tree
squirrels. These new ELECTROCUTION DEVICES are
powered by batteries, can be set in attics or
outside and will work quite well at killing any
small rodent which enters and grounds itself out.
They work by using electricity conducted along two
metal plates on the bottom of the trap. Rodents entering
will be touching one of these plates. Placing some of
our PECAN PASTE in the back of the trap along with some
type of seed will lure the squirrel back far enough until
it steps on the second metal plate. This allows the
circuit to be complete using the squirrel as the
conductor. For the next 30-60 seconds an electric
current will flow through the animal causing a quick
kill. The device delivers the shock this long to insure
the squirrel is dead. Electrocution is both humane and
quick. Dead squirrels are easy to remove and resetting
the trap is as easy as flick of the switch. Proper
location of these devices seems to be the most critical
variable which affects performance. If trapping flying
squirrels, you will need to locate the device in the
attic. If you are trapping tree squirrels, you will need
to place them along pathways you know they are using
to access your home. The guidelines we have listed
above for the proper placement of live traps applies
to these devices as well. However, these devices
need to be protected from direct rain and other moisture
so if you decide to use them outside you will need to fit
some type of cover over them. This insures they
won't ground out, short circuit or get damaged quickly.
Placing a garbage can cover over it, an umbrella or some
other protective covering is definitely needed. Remember
to keep it away from where children or pets will
have access to it since it is electrical. Though it
can't deliver a lethal shock, it will hurt and
contact with children or pets should be avoided.
Many commercial applicators as well as people who
have large populations to control are using this
device in conjunction with our LT5518RD live trap.
The trap quickly catches squirrels since you are
able to locate in several places you can't place
these Electric Devices. Once trapped, the rear door
allows for a perfect fit into the chamber of the
Electric Device so if thought you would be destroying
trapped squirrels instead of relocating them this
combination is both time saving and easy. Furthermore,
you are able to use both at the same time thus increasing
your rate of success which usually happens anytime
you are able to employ more than one "tool".
REPELLING SQUIRRELS FROM YOUR HOME AND YARD.
Once the squirrels have been removed from
your attic, you have a couple of choices on what
to do to stop new ones from entering. The direct
approach is to close off all entrances to your attic.
This may be easier said than done. Squirrels are
creatures of habit with a strong sense of smell.
Where one squirrel enters, a scent trail is left which
others may find and use. This scent will last for
six to twelve months and sometimes longer. It will enable
a squirrel to find ways into your attic that you never
knew existed! Females that have been in your home will
leave a strong scent which attract males for acres
around and for as long as a year or two after she has
been removed! Furthermore, territorial scents are
always being tested so foraging squirrels will look
to encounter their neighbors. If the squirrel living
in your home is suddenly missing from the neighborhood
activity, other squirrels will start to investigate
the vacated territory either looking for a place to live
or to find the lost squirrel. Either way, this type
of activity will show you just how many routes of entry
there are into your home and give you some idea as to
how much work it will entail to do exclusion. This is
why certain professional trappers command a premium
for sealing entrance holes. Most companies don't really
do a complete job; they tend to deal with the immediate
problem or route of entry which they seal properly.
However, the problem is generally much more complex
requiring extensive work and repairs. Don't expect to get
much done for $100.00 to $200.00. One company the author
deals with charges an average of $800.00 to $1,100.00
to seal a house but includes a lifetime warranty.
Needless to say, it is well worth every penny!
It has been proven over and over again that once a house
gets squirrel activity it is many times more likely
to get similar activity again in the future. This is
such a common theme that as the homeowner you must
make a decision as to how you plan on dealing with
this ongoing problem. Keeping several live traps
around ready to trap them out as they enter is
an option. However, paying someone to properly seal
the holes may prove to be a better choice in the
long run. Pay to do it right or don’t waste
your money. If you attempt to close the holes yourself,
be thorough. Don't limit your work to just the
holes you know they are using. Inspect the entire
home and address potential entry points. Be sure to
use quality products like the Copper Wool we discuss
above. Most importantly, you must look the entire
structure over from top to bottom. New squirrels
will undoubtedly take advantage of similar entry
points, so sealing or enforcing these areas before
animals have entered is advised. There are several products
which can be used on and around the home to
help discourage new invasions. ROPEL LIQUID is a
terrible tasting material and squirrels can't
stand it. Spray areas where you expect squirrels to
chew. The taste of the Ropel will discourage them.
This product is really helpful for three main types
of squirrel behaviors which can be a problem. First,
if you have had nesting squirrels and feel sure you
have trapped out all that were accessing the home,
you can perform closure by properly sealing all
entry points. The rule to follow here is that you
should not perform any closure until you have trapped
them out and ARE NOT HEARD NOISE INSIDE FOR AT LEAST
2 WEEKS. If you can go two weeks without having any
enter the home, you can safely seal up all entrances.
Once sealed, it is still possible that the scent
trails around the home will still lure new ones
and they might try to chew through your newly
installed barricade. To insure they don't get through,
spray the Ropel Liquid over all such areas. This
will add the needed repellency to keep them out.
However, Ropel will not keep out any which are nesting
so don't seal holes and spray expecting nesting
squirrels to leave!! It won't happen! They will not
give up their home that easily and will try and try
to get back inside so only after you have removed
the current population that calls you home their
home should you seal it up and treat with Ropel. The
second behavior that Ropel can stop quickly is when
squirrels have found something on your home they
like to chew on just to sharpen or wear their teeth.
This is commonly done on substrates like brick or
stucco or plastic. Whatever they find that they
like to gnaw on could end up getting a lot of damage.
If you are finding small areas around the home where
they are randomly chewing, spray it with Ropel. This
should stop the behavior immediately. The third place
where Ropel can help is under the car. Yes, cars can
become a target. Squirrels will chew on hoses, cables,
tubing, electrical wire and just about anything which
they find under the hood of the car. These parts of
the average automobile are ideal for squirrels which
need to gnaw and once found will attract several
on a daily basis. If you don't trap them out you will
be faced with a lot of costly damage to your car so
to prevent this from happening, spray all these areas
with Ropel once a week till they stop. It won't hurt any
of the car but because this area gets pretty hot,
applications won't last as long as normal so expect
to have to retreat weekly.
If the squirrels have been in the home awhile,
their smell will linger. This leads to new animals
wanting to get inside. Using any of these repellents
separately or in conjunction with one another can
help keep new ones away. The first is COYOTE URINE.
Though no real scientific data exists showing that
this predators urine can scare squirrels away, it
has been used over the years by farmers, homeowners
and gardeners attempting to do just that. We have
had reports of it keeping treated areas free of
squirrel as well as other small rodent activity
and clearly we have many customers who purchase
it who are satisfied with their results. The urine
can be applied to trees, fence posts, or along
property border lines where squirrels are active.
It is thought that when the squirrels find the
urine they will stay away knowing coyotes are
predatory and dangerous. We recommend applying
the first treatments where activity is highest;
though rain will wash the scent away it will
linger for some time in amounts great enough
for local squirrels to avoid. The use of
REPELLENT GUARDS will enable your applications
to last even longer. They can be placed on the
ground close to where you have applied some
in the open. They will keep the urine smelling
strong for a long time maximizing coverage. Another
repellent which can be used in the home as well
as the yard actually has a label and is registered
for the use of squirrel repelling. It is calledRID-A-CRITTER. This product is a granule and can
be sprinkled in the area where the animals are
active. Use it in attics, wall voids and soffits.
It can also be used on the ground below
a bird feeder to keep the squirrels away. Since
birds can't smell, they won't know it's there. It
evaporates slowly and releases an odor squirrels
do not like. One application will last about 4-6
weeks outside and up to three months when used
inside. Again, don't use this product to chase
away existing populations; use it to keep new
ones from establishing themselves in areas where
squirrels were once very active. By properly
sealing holes and installing Rid-A-Critter in
nest areas, you will be disguising the old
scents and hopefully keeping new squirrels away.
Repellent Guards will increase the life
expectancy of Rid-A-Critter. Granule Guards are
plastic containers which hold the granules protecting
them from rain and sun. They anchor to the ground,
are easy to refill or remove and blend in
nicely to most landscapes with their earth green
color. Place them along trails squirrels are
using, alongside flowerbeds or around the property
lines to keep out unwanted animals. You can also
use them in attics without their ground stakes
which makes for easy removal if odor becomes an
issue. Remember, Rid-A-Critter is not a solve
all; it is another tool which will help to
decrease activity in and around your home.
Still, there will be squirrels stubborn enough
to try and get through these treatments. In
extreme situations, you should do the closure,
install Rid-A-Critter and then use 4-The-Birds
repellent. This product is a clear, non-drying
glue like material which is applied to surfaces
the squirrels like to walk on. One experience with
this material shows it will keep the animals away for
good! It is messy, uncomfortable and irritates their
skin. Although it won't harm them, squirrels will
avoid treated areas. Use the GEL for small spot
treatments like a fence post, electric wire they
are using, in a hole, or on a pole they are climbing.
Put some on areas where they are chewing. The gel
lasts a long time - up to a year or more. (Expect to
renew it more frequently if you have a lot of
squirrel activity walking on treated surfaces.)
Bird watchers will like this product if they have
pesky squirrels which insist on climbing the poles
their bird feeders are mounted on. Treat the pole
with 4-the-Birds and you won't have a squirrel
try to climb it again! Since the birds don't use
the pole, it won't affect them. For larger jobs,
use the LIQUID form of this product. You can apply
it with a PUMP SPRAYER or a paint brush.
The liquid form is more cost effective when treating
large areas in an attic or soffit area. If you have
several entry points which are impossible to seal,
use the liquid form and spray directly into the
holes. One experience with this material will
keep even the most persistent animal away!
Be sure to treat all around the home applying
some to every crack or crevice the squirrels might
find attractive. Treat down spouts, fence lines or
trees they are climbing. When treating trees, it is
important to know squirrels will jump up as they
first start to climb. There is no need to treat
the first three feet of trunk. It is recommended
that you treat from 3 feet high up to 9 feet
which will provide a 6 foot barrier over which
they won't like to walk. Since trees are porous,
depending on the species of tree, you may need
to reapply it after a few months. Simply monitor
activity and as soon as you see squirrels walking
over where you treated apply some more. Squirrels
learn quickly and one bad experience with this material
will force them to find sanctuary elsewhere.
If your yard has a lot of nuts or for some other
reason local squirrels have been digging holes randomly,
treat with WHOLE CONTROL. This material can be sprayed
out over the turf and though generally used to keep
moles, armadillos and other digging animals off your
yard, it's bad taste will impact squirrels as well. It
really works when you have a lot of nuts or other items
in the turf which are attracting the squirrels. Once
treated, the squirrel will "taste" the Whole Control
as he digs or tries to open any nuts or seeds found in
your yard and since they don't like the taste, they will
forage elsewhere. Renew applications twice a month as
needed.
Another option you have is to install a sonic
sound device to repel new squirrels from moving in.
The author has had mixed results with some of the units
which are being sold today. They rely on paper
speakers and cannot transmit far enough to cover
an attic properly. Again, you get what you pay for.
Here is what's important when shopping for such
a device. First, don’t rely on it to remove or chase
away the squirrel currently in your attic. Live trap
the ones which are living there now and install the
sonic device after all have been removed. Squirrels
currently living in the home are not likely to give
it up easily. They are very likely to hang around
looking for gaps in the sound where they can live
without being irritated. However, ultra sound will
do a great job of keeping new ones from making your
home their home. Upon hearing the sound when they
get into your attic they will want no part of this
environment. Most will simply leave never to return.
Secondly, don’t think one unit will always be able
to cover an attic completely. Though the more
powerful units may, most attics have so many obstructions
its very hard for the sound to reach everywhere.
Remember the type of sound being transmitted is
directional and will only impact the area where
it projects. Units which claim to protect vast areas
from one location can't do it. To understand the
concept better, read on.
It has long been known that animals such as
rodents do not like sound of high megahertz.
Sound over 40 kHz they will not tolerate and
anything over 30 kHz make them feel uncomfortable.
This range of sound is thought to mimic anything
from distress, discomfort, warning or aggressiveness.
Ultra sound devices need to emit a sound in this
range if they are to repel animals effectively.
Humans, in general, cannot hear these sounds.
However, these are not the most effective for
repelling squirrels. In fact, the most effective
range to use on Squirrels is one we all can hear.
However, since most installations of these units
should be used in attics, it is quite possible
the sound will not be heard by anyone. This is
because the sound wave length has no real ability
to penetrate walls or insulation. This is also
why they fail so many times. Although they were
originally marketed for rats and mice, these
devices were used in warehouse and commercial
buildings where the rodents were not able to hide
too well. The sound was detected by them wherever
they went and this uncomfortable feeling would
drive them away. The original intent of these
devices was to repel rodents from moving into
the buildings - they were not employed to kill,
exterminate or control established populations.
Business found ultra sonics to work. Once
installed, rodent activity and infestations never
occurred. Maintenance of the devices was
practically non-existent and quality control
managers of such facilities proclaimed how
effective this new tool was. It wasn’t long
before manufacturers realized that they could
add profit by marketing the device to the general
public. It would need to be cheaper and easier
to understand so when the new designs finally
made it to the retail market, the quality of the
units dropped dramatically. Other factors which lead
to poor performance in the home include insulation
and wood construction - both of which will readily absorb
the high frequency transmissions before they can
have any impact on the rodents. The amount of wood
and insulation was not as prevalent in the commercial
buildings. The insulation of residential houses
has always been a problem because rats, mice and squirrels
may burrow in it and use it for protection to hide
from the sound. As companies competed to deliver
cheaper products to the market, consumers started
installing devices that could never work! The end
result is that confidence in ultra sonic technology
dropped and today it is viewed with skepticism.
Using a true COMMERCIAL UNIT, however, for
squirrel repelling will work. Unlike rats or mice,
squirrels prefer to travel on the surface of the
insulation. Although they may burrow for nesting,
when they romp around and jump from rafter
to rafter they are out in the open. This is key
to getting the ultra sonic devices to work on
any animal. The next reason these units will
work is that you should use them to deter new
squirrels from moving into your attic. Live trap
the ones living there now. Once no activity is
noted for a period of two weeks, you can
install our Ultrasonic. Try to position them in
the center of the void so they are sending the
signal out over the area providing wide coverage.
Since ultrasound cannot penetrate solid objects
you will loose any protection in areas which
are not wide open. This means foundation walls,
storage and basic insulation can all serve to
prevent ultrasound from getting maximum coverage.
Wide open attics and crawl spaces will provide
the best results; cluttered areas will require
extra units to insure no "dead spots" exist
in which rodents will readily move. Most homes
will get great protection by installing these
where the activity was most noted. This is
usually in the attic. However, it could be in an
area immediately adjacent to the home. Set them
out on deck edges, corners of structures, poles,
bird feeders, garages, under soffits and anywhere
you have seen squirrel activity.
Another electric option that works well in the home is
the STROBE LIGHT EVICTOR. This device uses light instead
of sound to chase away and repel squirrels. Most small
animals are overly sensitive to disruptive sounds or
lights. While Ultra Sound takes advantage of their
over developed sense of hearing, the Strobe Light Evictor
attacks their sense of sight and vision. The concept of
the strobe light is quite simple. All you do is hang it
in the attic or other space where these animals are not
wanted. You do want to situate it so the light will
have maximum range. This insures it will have best
impact. Next, just plug it in and leave it be. Animals
will immediately be affected by the light going off
and on over and over. It will make them nervous and
unsettled and eventually cause them to move out.
The great thing about this device is that it's so
easy to use. All you need to do is hang it up, plug
it in and let it do it's thing. There are certain
keys to having success with it and the biggest thing
is that the space involved must be one which is dark
and shielded from light. A pitch black space is
ideal; as long as it is dark during the night the
Strobe should work. Since gray squirrels are active
during the day, the unit won't have much of an impact
at this time. But during the night, when gray squirrels
are generally trying to sleep, they will find it
unbearable. Flying squirrels are equally affected.
Even though they are nocturnal by nature, the Strobe
is so strong and the flying squirrels eyes so sensitive,
they cannot stand to be around it and will quickly
move out. The other key to getting good results is making
sure you install enough to have a uniform impact on
the entire space needing control. If there are large
dividers or trey ceilings in the attic, the light will
be shielded and not impact all the zones of the space.
These dead areas could become spaces where squirrels
can hide comfortably so it is important that you make
sure the light is reaching every corner of the space.
Though most attics will only need one unit, some
will need 2 or 3. And like the other repellents,
squirrels which are nesting or have young will be
a lot more stubborn and harder to relocate. They
will try to endure the strobe so keep it on continuously
if you have such territorial animals. Don't be
surprised if it takes 2-4 weeks to get the animals out.
In summary, maintaining your landscape
will prevent either squirrels or flying squirrels
from moving into your home. Keep bushes, shrubs
and trees well manicured. Once tree squirrels or
flying squirrels have moved in, the use of live traps
will probably be your best option to catch and
relocate. Take them at least ten miles away to insure
they will not return. The live trap is humane, easy to
use and presents no risk to you, your family or pets.
Once current infestations of squirrels are removed,
new ones will use old scent trails and forage into
your attic looking for a home. Close off all entry
points to prevent this from happening. Use repellents
to make the area uncomfortable to them. If closure
and repellents are too much work, the use of
Ultra-Sonics or the Strobe Evictor will keep new ones
out for good. Squirrels are smart and persistent and
will readily move into your home if given the chance.
Don't let them - it could lead to costly and tragic
events.
To see any of the products listed above, simply
click on it where it appears underlined or in
another color. This will launch you to our product
catalog where you will be able to view the product,
learn more about how to use it and find out
packaging and pricing. You can also link to our
product catalog squirrel section by following the
link below. From there, you will be able to get
to the product catalog as well and also learn how
to order from us.
CLICK HERE AND GO TO OUR SQUIRREL PRODUCT SELECTION PAGECLICK HERE TO SEE WHAT CUSTOMERS HAVE TO SAY ABOUT OUR PRODUCTS
Our toll free number is 1-800-877-7290.
E-Mail us at support@bugspray.comCLICK HERE AND GO BACK TO OUR ARTICLE SELECTION PAGECLICK HERE TO GO TO OUR LIVE TRAP CATALOGCLICK HERE TO GO TO OUR MAIN PAGE
All articles copy righted by U-Spray, Inc.
4653 Highway 78
Lilburn, Georgia 30047
Phone: (770)985-9388
Fax: (770)985-9319
Toll Free: 1-800-877-7290
url: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page359.html